First things first: the Isle of Purbeck is not an island at all, but a 60-square-mile peninsula jutting dramatically out of Dorset's coastline. Its wide sandy beaches, rocky precipices and clifftop plateaus edge a pocket of unchanged loveliness: heathland dotted with bright gorse; green valleys knitted with remote farms and tiny hamlets; and, not least, the spine of chalk - the Purbeck Hills - running right through it, with a swooping gap showcasing the momentous ruins of Corfe Castle.
To say this land is ancient barely touches the bones of it. Purbeck forms part of the World Heritage Jurassic Coastline, with 185-million-year-old fossils to prove it. Stone Age burial chambers dot the hillsides; there is evidence of early settlements; and the famous Purbeck stone was first quarried here by the Romans in 1AD.
It's a place that has long inspired writers, poets and artists, from Thomas Hardy to Enid Blyton, Joseph Turner to Philip Steer. Its landscape became the backdrop to adventures with smugglers and sunken treasure; its sometimes dramatic seafaring history depicted in oils. Even Vanessa Bell and her Bloomsbury circle descended for holidays. Today's creatives are still captivated by its magical qualities, with the annual Purbeck Art Weeks showcasing a wealth of artistic talent.
A trip here might encompass walks through ancient woodlands (Arne Nature Reserve is well worth a visit) or along well-trodden coastal paths; exploring stone-built villages steeped in local legend; or browsing for quality artwork and artisan crafts. Happily, the area is well-served for accommodation and pubs - many with as rich a history as Purbeck itself.
Purbeck stone
This story is from the June 2022 edition of Homes & Antiques.
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This story is from the June 2022 edition of Homes & Antiques.
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