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Where Fire Yields to Finesse: Josh Boutwood's Osteria at Balmori
The Philippine Star
|September 11, 2025
Josh Boutwood has never been one for the spotlight.
In a culinary scene that often rewards noise and novelty, he works with a quieter rhythm, moving from one kitchen to the next as though writing chapters in a book you only discover if you're paying attention. To those who follow his work closely, each project feels less like a debut than a continuation—a refinement of flavor, a sharpening of thought.
A year ago, he stood at Rockwell's Balmori Suites with Anvil, an intimate residency where he stripped food to its core—bold, elemental, forged with the precision of a blacksmith. Dishes carried the weight of memory and patience: mushroom gratin with comté, roast inasal with corn and sorghum, plates that felt hammered into shape with care.
Now, he returns to the same room with Osteria, a pop-up that feels at once looser and more personal. If Anvil was about distilling food to its essence, Osteria leans into comfort and generosity. "This is the kind of food I'd cook at home," Josh tells me, his voice steady, almost understated, as if sharing a secret best kept simple. "I didn't want it to be precious. I wanted it to feel welcoming."
A Journey of Kitchens
To understand Osteria, it helps to follow the journey Josh has traced across Manila. Each restaurant has been a deliberate exploration of a different side of cooking.
The Test Kitchen was where he worked out ideas in public, menus shifting like drafts on paper. Helm distilled his philosophy into an intimate 12-seat room, courses arranged with a mathematician's care. Now at Ayala Triangle, it has quietly grown to twice the size while keeping that same precision. Savage turned fire and char into a primal language, while Ember softened the edges into something more elegant and European in spirit. Juniper offered an approachable, neighborhood face to his food—relaxed yet unmistakably his.
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