Koh Lan is Thailand's antidote to The White Lotus frenzy

While crowds flock to Koh Samui with its five-star resorts and beaches, Koh Lan, within two hours of Bangkok, offers an alternative

- FINN-OLAF JONES

AT DUSK, A languorous breeze skimmed across the Gulf of Thailand as a flock of geese waddled along the shoreline.

A small group of Thai women in modest swim dresses reminiscent of Victorian-era beachwear strolled by. Behind them, three men stoked a beach fire next to two three-story wooden fishing boats pulled onto the sand and reimagined as rustic hotel rooms.

Soon, iron grills would be laid across the fire, loaded with squid, tilapia and whatever else the sea had offered up that day. A dousing of sauce and seasonings later, the meal, served on plastic plates, was handed to guests who had managed to walk this far down the deserted beach and plunk down 180 baht (about $5.60, including a frosty bottle of local Singha beer). I sank into an orange chair in the sand and feasted on the sound of gentle waves, the chirping of cicadas from the jungle lining the beach, and the murmuring in Thai around me - a soundtrack so soothing it felt as though it should come with a prescription. Was this place really just a 20-minute boat ride from the city of Pattaya's red-light districts and soiled shores? While crowds flock to the The White Lotus setting of Koh Samui, with its five-star resorts and thong-thronged beaches, Koh Lan, 80 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok, offers an alternative.

The hotels here are simple. The seafood is plentiful and delicious, and the experience is authentic and affordable. While my Thai and expatriate friends all have their favourite islands along this northern stretch of coast - notably Koh Si Chang and Koh Samet - Koh Lan has a unique advantage: No reservations required. Just hop on one of the many boats from Pattaya and find a bed on the stretch of beach that appeals to you the most.

Sunset swims, beach huts and a gin-clear sea