FALLING FOR GHANA

HARRY LEACH IS MOVED BY A HUMBLING ADVENTURE IN AN UNFORGETTABLE LAND

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THOUSANDS of fruit bats whirled in a tornado, spiralling 300ft above as Ghana's tallest waterfall crashed in a thunderous beat beside me - its mist cooling the heat on my skin.

We had hiked through a sweaty tropical forest to get here - ducking under vines, stepping over startled reptiles, brushing off bold insects, crossing nine clanging bridges.

Each footstep sank into rich, red earth as the path narrowed underfoot and the sound of falling water grew louder.

Then, suddenly, the trees parted and there it was - Ghana's famous Wli Waterfalls, the tallest in West Africa. Wild and beautiful.

The bats squeaked as the 262ft-high fall poured down a jagged cliff into a pool over which butterflies scattered. The noise was deafening, and yet the moment seemed still.

If this were Europe, a sea of phones would block the view. But here, deep in Ghana's Volta Region, it was just us and nature raw and unspoilt. The fall's soft waves didn't just cool my body, they stripped back life's pressures. This wasn't just a trip; it was unfiltered adventure.

I was travelling to West Africa with Intrepid Travel, a firm that threads you into the fabric of Ghana as well as taking you way off the beaten track. That was evident that very morning when we broke bread with a family living in Liati Wote - a beautiful, remote village hugging the Ghana-Togo border. Our hosts welcomed us with open arms in the way I quickly learned all Ghanaians do: with a warmth and effortless generosity that is rare to find wherever you go in the world.

As goats wandered past, and the sun beat down, we chatted about sport, family, our passions, as mighty Mount Afadjato leaned over us.

"Everything is focused on each other," said 16-year-old Elizabeth, while her sister Precious served omelettes fresh from the pan.