IT'S 1.30pm on Jermyn Street and lunch service at Wiltons (No 55) is in full swing. Over on the oyster bar, plump Pembrokeshire beauties recline on ice, as trays of lobster cocktail and sole meunière weave their way through the main dining room to velvet booths and the domed carving trolley glides between them, bearing salmon coulibiac. Every table is full. It's a scene that plays out every day at London's second-oldest restaurant (Wiltons defers to Rules, which got its licence 42 years earlier, in 1798), in spite of the dozens of newer, flashier options on its doorstep. At a time when so many restaurants are facing an existential struggle to fill seats, how has Wiltons managed to stay relevant?
The answer, according to director Jason Phillips, is never to chase relevance. 'We avoid following fads and there's no fanfare,' he says. 'We're simply unwaveringly focused on the quality of the ingredients.' If something is out of season-asparagus, for example-you won't find it on the menu and, although the kitchen is a fuss-free zone (no tweezering of micro-herbs), it prides itself on forensic attention to detail. 'For our Dover sole, we work with a supplier who we know will only sell us fish that weigh exactly 400g, so everyone knows exactly what they're getting.'
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Put some graphite in your pencil
Once used for daubing sheep, graphite went on to become as valuable as gold and wrote Keswick's place in history. Harry Pearson inhales that freshly sharpened-pencil smell
Dulce et decorum est
Michael Sandle is the Wilfred Owen of art, with his deeply felt sense of the futility of violence. John McEwen traces the career of this extraordinary artist ahead of his 88th birthday
Heaven is a place on earth
For the women of the Bloomsbury group, their country gardens were places of refuge, reflection and inspiration, as well as a means of keeping loved ones close by, discovers Deborah Nicholls-Lee
It's the plants, stupid
I WON my first prize for gardening when I was nine years old at prep school. My grandmother was delighted-it was she who had sent me the seeds of godetia, eschscholtzia and Virginia stock that secured my victory.
Pretty as a picture
The proliferation of honey-coloured stone cottages is part of what makes the Cotswolds so beguiling. Here, we pick some of our favourites currently on the market
How golden was my valley
These four magnificent Cotswold properties enjoy splendid views of hill and dale
The fire within
An occasionally deadly dinner-party addition, this perennial plant would become the first condiment produced by Heinz
Sweet chamomile, good times never seemed so good
Its dainty white flowers add sunshine to the garden and countryside; it will withstand drought and create a sweet-scented lawn that never needs mowing. What's not to love about chamomile
All I need is the air that I breathe
As the 250th anniversary of 'a new pure air' approaches, Cathryn Spence reflects on the 'furious free-thinker' and polymath who discovered oxygen
My art is in the garden
Monet and Turner supplied the colours, Canaletto the structure and Klimt the patterns for the Boodles National Gallery garden at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show.