Having driven about 5 000 km through Ethiopia, along some of the worst roads of our trip so far, we were dusty and tired. We were looking forward to Kenya for two reasons: a luxury six-night break on
Lamu Island, and watching frolicking wildebeest while sipping a G&T. The great migration was in full swing.
First things first, though: another border. We crossed from Ethiopia into Kenya at Moyale, and the Ethiopian side was a total non-event, even though we only got there at 6 pm. “You’re my first vehicle this week!” the immigration official told us.
Unfortunately, on the Kenyan side, we were informed that the immigration office had closed. “Hakuna matata!” said a security guard, indicating a spot where we could set up camp for the night within the Kenyan border grounds. The following day the paperwork took 10 minutes and we were off.
Vampire tree dassies
The 250 km drive from Moyale to the town of Marsabit (on a fantastic tar road) took us through Kenya’s immense northern semi-desert. We saw no people and no animals – it was just us and the vast, volcanic rock-strewn landscape, with a few trees to break the monotony.
Three hours later, we drove into Marsabit and stopped at a grocery store. Like two ill-mannered toddlers, Marie and I ran around squealing with delight at all the fridges containing yogurt, cheese, wine and many other items we had simply forgotten about during the past two months in Ethiopia. We purchased a heap of goodies to re-stock the Hilux pantry.
Keen to test wild-camping conditions in Kenya, we camped in a secluded spot just outside Marsabit a few hundred meters off the main road. The next morning we encountered our first elephant.
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The wilder shore
The final leg of a 30-day trek across East Africa sees lan Tyrer and the Africa - Wild & Untamed crew explore both shores of Lake Malawi. Get ready for an overloaded ferry, a croc attack and being surrounded by elephants...
A river runs through it
Sabie is onthe Drakensberg escaromentialongMpumalangaâs famous Panorama Route. Want a weekend away surrounded by forests and waterfalls? Here's wnat you need to know.
TAKE A HIKE
Harkerville's mini Otter
Sweet & juicy!
This issue's recipes all include lush seasonal fruit like nectarines, plums and apricots. Enjoy!
Big mountain magic
On a clear day, as you approach the Cathedral Peak Hotel, it happens involuntarily: You start to grin. You'll be standing up there soon, gazing over this valley, and the scuttling of ground-level life will seem irrelevant. Join us on a five-day adventure into the heart of the high Drakensberg
Your next weekend away
A self-catering house in the Tankwa, a campsite next to the Orange River, a guest farm near the Drakensberg... Toast Coetzer travelled a lot last year: Here are six of his favourite places to stay if you're planning a road trip or weekend escape.
A life through binoculars
If the name Hugh Chittenden sounds familiar, it's probably because you see it every time you use your Roberts Bird Guide he's one of the co-authors. He lives in Mtunzini on the KZN coast and birding is as much part of his day as a cup of coffee.
Wanderlust in the park
All great cities have great parks, writes Dara Kell: spaces where you can exhale and slough off the stress and grime of urban life.
The Kalahari remembers
The Kalahari is a place of magic and heartache, where drought is an ever-present threat. Drive a loop from Upington to the Kuruman River and discover soulful landscapes, brilliant skies and resilient people who never give up.
Take a Hike
Hug a baobab in the Bushveld