The Best Of Both Worlds

Chanel's ambition to become a watchmaking powerhouse has been realised. Just look at its impressive, well-rounded showing at Watches & Wonders 2022.

- Candice Chan

Chanel's 35-year watchmaking legacy may seem short in an industry focused on centuries-old heritage. In 1987, it launched its first watch, Première, and then the J12 in 2000. This watch, with its ceramic armour, unisex style, and distinctive silhouette, was an instant commercial success and quickly became an icon for the maison. But it wasn't satisfied with just producing beautiful tickers; Chanel was determined to develop its own watchmaking capabilities.

Obtaining credibility is possible in a variety of ways, but the fastest and most reliable method is to hire the best talent. Chanel did just that. It invested in other watchmaking houses like Bell & Ross (1998), Romain Gauthier (2011), F.P. Journe (2018) and Kenissi (2019). It also made sure its watchmaking facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds became the industry reference for highly resistant ceramic manufacturing.

Chanel unveiled Calibre 1, the first in-house movement created from scratch by its team of technicians and designers, in 2018. This year, it adds a fifth calibre to its solid stable of independently made high complication movements (comprising Calibres 1, 2, 3 and 3.1). Powered by Chanel's flying tourbillon movement, the new J12 Diamond Tourbillon Calibre 5 shows how far the maison has come as an independent watchmaker.

A Glittering New Milestone