Matt Bromley has turned chasing risky waves into a career one that is as rewarding as it is dangerous. Surfing those waves requires explosive power and mental fortitude. Heres how he develops both to brave the waves, and make it home alive.
Successfully riding that wave changed the trajectory of Matt’s life. Since first learning how to surf, when he was just six years old, smaller waves had become Matt’s forte. His dad had been surfing for most of his life, and decided to teach his son the ropes. Every second weekend they would wake up and catch the waves in Muizenberg. Matt’s passion for surfing reached new heights when they moved to Kommetjie when he was 12. Living on the beachfront allowed him to surf every day. “I stopped doing all the other sports, and just fell in love with surfing.”
At 12, Matt was a force to be reckoned with. Already a professional surfer, he was recognised by major companies such as Billabong. “I was doing the competition scene, and it all started snowballing from there.”
But once he tackled the waves at Dungeons, going back to smaller waves didn’t bring him the same satisfaction. “It was just this crazy, life-changing moment for me. It kind of put me on the map, and directed my future towards big-wave surfing.”
CALCULATED RISK
この記事は Men's Health South Africa の October 2018 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、8,500 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
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この記事は Men's Health South Africa の October 2018 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、8,500 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
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