SPORT & STREET COLLEZIONI - SPORT & STREET COLLEZIONI 77

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Today’s wardrobe is characterised by principles of total customisation. The macro trends at work are the "double bind" between fashion and performance, between knitwear and technical fabrics, between workwear and tailoring. The winning formula is still a "cut and paste" approach from different reference areas and historical contexts: the urban utility jacket, for example, is clearly inspired by mountaineering just like military meets streetwear and punk and rock are integrated into a rather bourgeois dandy look. The evanescence of the season matches the evaporation of traditional gender stereotypes: Peppe Orrù, our Contributing Fashion Editor in London, highlights its importance in the ‘I Shop Therefore I Am’ feature by informing us of the opening of Agender, a new unisex retail concept introduced in the Selfridges flagship store in Oxford Street in London. As highlighted in the Buyer's Guide, outerwear identifies parkas, trench coats, bombers, perfectos, and down jackets as the cult items for the season. Jeanswear introduces alongside denim, or matches denim, with fabrics from different origins, even classic ones, fishing out again vintage style codes and maximising the role of washes and finishes for wet, waxed, and waterproof effects.

The new outerwear must have items
Top accessories in the buyer's guide
Underground luxury: the dominant trend
Urban dweller looks
Multifunctional clothing and accessories