In a world of viral brags, an offline taco joint is a joy

ASK anyone in the London food nerd community if they have tried that hot new taco place and, at the moment, there will likely only be one answer.

- Jimi Famurewa

CDMX Tacos materialised in a Soho back alley early last month, fully-formed and trafficking in a familiar mode of slick, digital age hype-baiting. The white-tiled space has a minimalist, Supernova burger quality. The queues are long. The crowd is, inevitably, heavy on food influencers pushing their dripping al pastor quesadillas right up towards the camera and gesticulating with all the subtlety of CBeebies presenters.

People say it is pretty good and, having finally eaten there, I mostly agree. But there is something about the supercharged nature of its emergence that I find a little wearying and rote.