Heirlooms of the Future: PAULINE BURBIDGE

Inspired by the natural world and a passion for fabric and stitch, textile artist Pauline Burbidge's pioneering designs have redefined the concept of quilt-making

- EMMA LONGSTAFF

Celebrated textile artist Pauline Burbidge is challenging expectations of what a quilt can be. Her pioneering work is held by museums such as London's V&A, as well as prestigious collections in America. I've always been trying to reinvent what quilting is; to make quilts completely on my own terms, and not according to anyone else's rules. I hope I have changed what people mean when they talk about quilts, Pauline says.

Pauline started making quilts after a chance discovery at London's Portobello market in 1975. I found an old quilting book by Ruth Finley from the 1920s, and I decided to try making a few traditional blocks,' she explains. In a traditional quilt, a block is formed from small pieces of fabric patched together to make a larger square (hence 'patchwork'). Conventionally, a quilt top is made up of different square blocks sewn together. The top is joined onto a warmer middle layer and a fabric backing, and the layers are quilted' together with tiny stitches.

'At the time, I was working in the fashion business as a designer, but I loved the simplicity of quilting. It was just me, colour and fabric. At the age of 25, I realised, "This is it!" After Pauline's moment of epiphany, reality hit, and she had to find a way to make a living. Working as a pattern-cutter three days a week meant that she could keep quilting without having to cut corners. Pauline believes it's this refusal to compromise that has kept her making quilts for nearly 47 years.