The Past Is Present

With its cobblestone streets, Spanish Baroque architecture, and thriving crafts scene, San Miguel de Allende has long been a window into traditional Mexico. Now, local and transplanted designers are spring-boarding off the pretty city's history, with decidedly modern results

- RIMA SUQI

SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE has historically been such a magnet for expats of a certain age that Mexicans have come to refer to it jokingly as Jurassic Park. The colonial town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has long seduced visitors with its caught-in-amber allure and robust traditional gallery circuit. But a boom in commercial and residential development, coupled with an emerging young arts-and-crafts scene, has given San Miguel a fresh identity.

A four-hour drive or a one-hour flight from Mexico City, it's become a Hamptons of sorts for urbanites seeking a weekend escape. It's also increasingly pulling creatives from within and outside Mexico who are drawn to its small-town vibe and access to exceptional artisans who can help realize their designs. Jorge Almada and his wife, Anne-Marie Midy, founders of home-furnishings company Casamidy, were pioneers when they arrived from Mexico City in 1996. "It wasn't on the map; there was no design community," recalled Almada. The duo quickly became darlings of that international scene. Casamidy still maintains a by-appointment showroom here and just opened Tiendita, a tiny shop selling small, easily transported pieces made in the area: decorative pillows, woven backgammon sets, waxed canvas totes, and jackets hand-beaded by a Wixárika artist.