MUY BUENO! FLAVORS FROM A SAN SEBASTIAN-TRAINED CHEF

Young chef Kennedy Alfonso enters towards the end of our 13-dish lunch at Bueno Tapas & Wine, red and white sangria in hand, to raise a toast.

- SCOTT GARCEAU

The newest branch, located at One Maridien, 9th Ave., BGC, is another chapter for the San Sebastian-trained chef, opening in December 2023 and now adding new flavors to its authentically Spanish menu.

After launching at The Grove by Rockwell in 2017, the Bonifacio Global City branch allows chef Alfonso to do what he does best: offer new food explorations inspired by Spain's Basque region. His favorite signature dishes like arroz meloso de rabo de toro, estofado de res, and gambas al ajillo are still there, served in a modern-yet-warm urban setting, but today he's unveiling new creations: a paella Iberico served with the black-hoofed Iberico pig; the artichoke paella; plus a smoked pulpo (not on the menu) served on a creamy bed of sauce with grilled asparagus and pulpy tomatoes.

These alone are worth a delicious meal, but we started with his perfect-to-the-letter take on gambas al ajillo, and a plate of manchego croquettes that were incredibly soft and creamy; then a plate of pan-seared scallops on a bed of sweet, somewhat tangy corn puree, served with two kinds of mushrooms that were as plump as the scallops were.