The sea never changes

Tourism unlocks potential in the 'Bay of Opportunity'

- Jim Freeman

Two things struck me as symbolic while driving down the Langkloof the other day: the first was how road signs changed from "Gqeberha" to "Port Elizabeth" almost as soon as we entered the Eastern Cape, the other was reports of the collapse of the Cape Recife lighthouse.

(Let's get one thing straight: the road signs might be politically incorrect but NOBODY in the Friendly City other than politicians calls it anything other than Port Elizabeth or PE.)

Don't get me started on how quickly the road (R62) surface deteriorated after we departed the Western Cape.

While reports of the lighthouse's demise were premature, ominous signs of penury, inattention and indifference were everywhere as Rose-marie and I explored central Gqeberha; particularly saddening for someone who has loved the city for nearly half a century.

Central Port Elizabeth used to be enchanting but such magnificent buildings as the Edward Hotel and others in the precinct surrounding the Donkin Reserve have decayed beyond rescue.

Neighbouring areas like Richmond Hill promised gentrification a few years ago but are showing signs of rot.

This is not unique to Gqeberha: downtown degradation is a national malaise (with the exception of Cape Town).

I still adore Gqeberha. Its "Riviera", comprising Humewood and Summerstrand, is way better than it was in my youth, while Walmer has Chelsea-fied in distinctly Eastern Cape fashion.

People are as friendly, spontaneous and thirsty as ever. I can walk into The Duck (and waddle out) after an absence of years and be greeted as if I'd never been away.