VIENNA

Against an elegant backdrop of Habsburg palaces, the Austrian capital hosts a uniquely bohemian party scene. Come for the exceptional yet affordable wine, and stay for the off-beat cabaret, secret techno and arty bars

- ELLEN HIMELFARB.

I can't remember the last time I saw live music, but I can guarantee it wasn't half as much fun as watching Inéz Schaefer, the German technopop star who's on stage right now, currently shooting green lasers from her fingers. One half of the Dresden duo Ätna, Schaefer radiates the writhing artistry of Lady Gaga, the haunting vocals of Sinéad O'Connor, and the persona - with her gravity-defying plait and gloved catsuit of Blond Ambition-era Madonna.

I've found myself this evening at Fluc Wanne, a strobe-lit club in a disused subway that draws many fine specimens of Vienna's music-loving population. There are women with lush tresses and zodiac tattoos, and men with ironic moustaches and body-skimming singlets who audibly hail from a broad mix of nations east. "Vienna's still a bit 'Habsburg Empire'," says my Viennese friend, Stefan.

All eyes are fixed on Schaefer and Demian Kappenstein, taking turns at the keyboards with virtuoso ease while the other vamps for the crowd. As Schaefer's melodic whisper erupts into operatic wails, it seems apt that the duo's name sounds like the world's most active volcano. She has the crowd in the palm of her spandex-covered hands.