Contrary to fashion’s obsession with all things shiny and new, horology has a recurring fascination with the past. Here’s how brands are winding back the clock to make their timepieces look like the one your father or grandfather had.
COMEBACK CODES
Anachronistic details are definitive of a bygone era. There’s no reason to revisit archaic styles, other than to imbue timepieces with a strong sense of vintage-ness. For example, nothing screams “does not belong” like a California dial on a modern watch, especially since we’re so accustomed to seeing Roman numerals. The half-and-half style was popular in California (hence the name) in the late 1970s and early 1980s, and has become such a cool curiosity that homage pieces from Rolex and Panerai (the two brands most associated with the look) get sold out almost immediately.
Another popular element is the onion crown, specifically for pilot watches. The bulbous knob is typical of aviation timepieces from the early 1900s, to facilitate easy operation while wearing thick gloves. Now, it resurfaces to add antiquated weight to the likes of Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 and IWC’s Big Pilot.
On the dive front, Blancpain’s pursuit for diver safety during the 1950s led to the creation of a water-tightness indicator in a Fifty Fathoms model called the MIL-SPEC 1. This circular safety device, which signifies water ingress by changing colours (think “litmus paper”), reprises its role in the 60th anniversary edition Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC.
Esta historia es de la edición June - July 2017 de MEN 'S FOLIO Singapore.
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Esta historia es de la edición June - July 2017 de MEN 'S FOLIO Singapore.
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Life, In A Slow Dive
Despite the contradictions and opposing forces acting against Slowdive, the shoegaze pioneers have reunited a little more comfortable in their skin, a little surer in their voice, lifting their chins up a little higher to look into the bright-eyed, blissed-out audience that stand beyond their feet.
Turn A New Leaf
ZEGNA documents its essence in Born in Oasi Zegna: The Book-a vessel for legacy, a conduit for conversation through time, and a plethora of nature's amusements to inspire generations to come.
Heart-Crafted
In the heart of Italy, Dolce&Gabbana presents an exhibition that pays tribute to the cultures embedded within its DNA.
Setting The Scene
The introduction of the M Social brand in Europe makes staying at century-old European hotels anything but a stuffy, old-fashioned experience. Their secret? A refurbishment in 2021 that has varnished historical, opulent spaces for the interest of the youth, as seen at M Social Hotel Paris.
In Conversation With Desmond Tan
Men's Folio caught up with Zenith Friend of the Brand and Singapore actor Desmond Tan while he was in Geneva, Switzerland for Watches & Wonders Geneva.
Razor Thin
Piaget demonstrates their technicity in ultra-thin watchmaking with the Piaget Ultimate Concept Tourbillon.
Master Of Style
They may not be sporting the ostentatious details but Tudor's duo of Master Chronometer certified Black Bays may have stolen the show at Watches & Wonders Geneva.
In Conversation With Laurent Lecamp
Montblanc Watch Division managing director Laurent Lecamp dissects the underlying message of this year's novelties.
4810m Deep
Dive 4810M deep without oxygen with Montblanc's newly engineered dive watch.
From Geometry To Artistry
Vacheron Constantin's theme of \"From Geometry to Artistry\" comes alive through the realisation of geometric and arithmetic sketches and calculations.