Try GOLD - Free

Heard of Bario? Winona? Tiny towns are an escape from excess, and a gift of time

The Straits Times

|

July 27, 2025

They may be far-flung, but some corners of the world offer the rarity of space to breathe and be.

- Lee Siew Hua

Heard of Bario? Winona? Tiny towns are an escape from excess, and a gift of time

These days, when I feel provoked, I remind myself: "Remember Bario."

Those two words transport me back to the cluster of villages sequestered in the Sarawak highlands—my escape from excess and stress three weeks ago.

I loved the gentle pace. I thought its Kelabit people, one of Borneo's tiniest tribes, were gracious and globally connected.

Sarawak is geographically really close to Singapore, yet it is a discovery. That's so with many isolated places in South-east Asia, tucked-away treasures for wanderers.

For the first time, I stayed in a longhouse. Our host family served freshly foraged ferns alongside hyperlocal curries, stir-fries and roasts seasoned with Bario's fine mountain salt. Despite my carb-avoidance, I'd scoop up Bario's fragrant high-altitude rice that win awards. I'd relish the sweetest pineapples plucked from a nearby plot.

We trekked, star-gazed from our homestay and enjoyed cinnamon coffee by the fireplace after breakfast, lingering with the Bulan family whose second and third generations are now mostly dispersed elsewhere in Sarawak and around the world.

An accident during my time there highlighted the resilience and big-heartedness of the locals.

A monstrous pickup truck, rented by the Bulans to ferry a seasonal surge of visitors but driven one rainy night by a helpful Malaysian city-dweller, backed into a padi field. The Bulans quickly assured the regretful young driver that he needn't worry.

But they were worried. It might cost 10,000 ringgit, a huge sum, to repair the truck. "Why did you let him drive?" a young Bulan quietly asked her father, out of the motorist's earshot.

The next morning, in the kampung spirit, their community gathered to haul the truck out of the mud. It did not have a single scratch, miraculously.

At the end of my stay, a conversation with Ms Rachel Bulan, 38, who was visiting her family in Bario, got me thinking.

MORE STORIES FROM The Straits Times

The Straits Times

The Straits Times

RAMEN REVIVAL

Slurp up regional flavours from Japan and local hawker renditions

time to read

10 mins

November 02, 2025

The Straits Times

The Straits Times

MIDDLE EASTERN MELTING POT

New eateries are putting their own spin on the cuisine, while established players keep pace with updated menus

time to read

11 mins

November 02, 2025

The Straits Times

The Straits Times

From a super-saver to embracing 'die with zero'

After a lifetime of saving for the future, I recently opened up to the idea that maybe one should use up one's wealth before one dies.

time to read

6 mins

November 02, 2025

The Straits Times

The Straits Times

MASTEROFMYUNIVERSE TO RULE

RACE 1 (1,200M) 4 Run Run Timing made a strong first impression for the Ricky Yiu stable, finishing a close second on his Class 5 debut and showing he is ready to win again. He draws wider in barrier 9 this time, but that effort confirmed he was heading the right way.

time to read

6 mins

November 02, 2025

The Straits Times

The Straits Times

KEEPING CALM THE 'BIGGEST LESSON'

Sabalenka aims to keep her emotions in check in bid for first WTA Finals crown

time to read

2 mins

November 02, 2025

The Straits Times

The Straits Times

New work by late M'sian poet

Two young editors have worked to posthumously publish In The Mirror: New And Selected Poems Of Wong Phui Nam

time to read

3 mins

November 02, 2025

The Straits Times

The Straits Times

WILL POGACAR BECOME CYCLING'S G.O.A.T?

In this series, The Straits Times takes a deep dive into the hottest sports topic or debate of the hour. From Lamine Yamal's status as the next big thing to pickleball's growth, we'll ask The Big Question to set you thinking, and talking.

time to read

5 mins

November 02, 2025

The Straits Times

The Straits Times

Sentosa Cove property prices buck mainland uptrend as loss-making deals rise

In July, a condominium unit at Marina Collection in Sentosa Cove was resold for $4.95 million, over 40 per cent below the price paid in 2008.

time to read

4 mins

November 02, 2025

The Straits Times

The Straits Times

More HDB flat owners switching to bank loans as rates drop to 3-year low

Owners spoilt for choice as banks compete to offer attractive refinancing options

time to read

4 mins

November 02, 2025

The Straits Times

The Straits Times

Beauty products and fried chicken: Korean culture meets diplomacy at summit

World leaders and business titans gathered in South Korea this week to hash out issues from tariffs and AI to regional security.

time to read

2 mins

November 02, 2025

Listen

Translate

Share

-
+

Change font size