It was only A.M. on a Tuesday I in July, but the staff at Tatiana, the restaurant in Lincoln Center's David Geffen Hall, seemed exhausted. "Kerry Washington was in last night," a publicist told me. Someone else mentioned that there had been a private event on Sunday-the one day of the week when the restaurant is usually closed. The last guests had trickled out at 4 A.M. on Monday, and the managers hadn't left until six. The party was for Beyoncé, who had just played a sold-out show at MetLife Stadium, and Jay-Z. ("I buried the lede," the publicist said.)
Kwame Onwuachi, Tatiana's chef and proprietor, wouldn't normally be at the restaurant so early, but he was there to record a television segment for WNBC his second of the day, after the "Today" show, at half past eight. "You've had a busy morning!" the camera operator said. "It's not really morning if you don't sleep," Onwuachi replied.
For the segment, Onwuachi and a reporter named Lauren Scala were going to sample dishes that he'd be cooking for an event at the U.S. Open: pepper steak, hamachi escovitch, black-bean hummus topped with berbere lamb. A bottle of spring water was produced. Someone asked if there shouldn't be wine, too. "Are you gonna turn this water into wine?" Scala quipped. Onwuachi laughed and said, "It is my Jesus year, though! Thirty-three."
"Do I remember when I was thirty-three?" Scala wondered aloud.
"It must have been a good year if you don't remember it,"Onwuachi said.
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der October 09, 2023-Ausgabe von The New Yorker.
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Diese Geschichte stammt aus der October 09, 2023-Ausgabe von The New Yorker.
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INSIDE JOB-"Hit Man"
Years before Hannah Arendt coined, in the pages of this magazine, the phrase \"the banality of evil,\" popular films and fiction were embodying that idea in the character of the hit man. In classic crime movies such as \"This Gun for Hire\" (1942) and \"Murder by Contract\" (1958), hit men figure much as Nazis do in political movies, as symbols of abstract evil.
WHATEVER YOU SAY
Rereading Jenny Holzer, at the Guggenheim.
SUBCONSCIOUSLY YOURS
Does every generation get the Freud it deserves?
BY A WHISKER
Louis Wain and the reinvention of the cat.
Beyond Imagining
Bessie, Lotte, Ruth, Farah, and Bridget, who had been lunching together for half a century, joined in later years by Ilka, Hope, and, occasionally, Lucinella, had agreed without the need for discussion that they were not going to pass, pass away, and under no circumstances on.
STATES OF PLAY
Can advocates use state supreme courts to preserve-and perhaps expand-constitutional rights?
THE LONG RIDE
The surf legend Jock Sutherland's unlikely life.
ARE WE DOOMED?
A course at the University of Chicago thinks it through.
GOD EXPLAINS THE RULES OF HIS NEW BOARD GAME
Guys, want to play this new board game? It’s called Life. No, it’s not “one of God’s impossible-to-understand games that take three hours to learn.” It’ll be fun, I promise!
RED LINE
With the election approaching, the U.S. and Mexico wrangle over border policy.
