LIVER POOL• LERPWL.COM
Most readers over the age of about 25 will have, at some point, wake up in the area around Lerpwl. It was from a TV studio near here that Richard and Judy roused the nation on This Morning throughout the ’90s. And, indeed, this restaurant in Liverpool’s Royal Albert Dock has something of the pair about it, being warm, eccentric, and prone to long-windedness.
I visit just before Christmas, in the brief period before everything closes again. Entering through the heavy glass doors, you get a sense of expensive emptiness: a flagstone floor, white walls, and ash-and-racing-green leather dining chairs surround a gleaming open kitchen, where a brigade of cooks is hard at work under chef and co-owner Ellis Barrie, who made a name for himself when he appeared on Great British Menu.
My heart bleeds a little for Barrie and his brother Liam, who also runs the well-reviewed Marram Grass on Anglesey. They’d planned to open their Liverpool venture earlier in the year, but the pandemic put paid to that. Still, when I sit down, things at Lerpwl are very much in full swing, and an enthusiastic waiter presents me with the menu.
The thinking behind the food is seasonality. Not that you’d know it from the list, since it’s written in the sparse diction of a traffic policeman. Dishes are described minimally — ‘wood pigeon’ and ‘Galloway beef’ — which means it’s left to the waiter to explain that the wood pigeon comes with pureed artichokes and is given a wonderful texture by the addition of toasted granola and a smidgeon of truffle. And he’s not wrong. It’s the best pigeon dish I’ve ever eaten.
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der Food #11 Spring 2021-Ausgabe von National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.
Bereits Abonnent ? Anmelden
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der Food #11 Spring 2021-Ausgabe von National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.
Bereits Abonnent? Anmelden
HOW I GOT THE SHOT
PHOTOGRAPHER MATT DUTILE ON SNAPPING THE FROZEN CONTINENT'S CHARISMATIC WILDLIFE FOR OUR MAY ISSUE
THE EVOLVING GAP YEAR
FROM ENHANCING A CV TO BENEFITTING A LOCAL COMMUNITY OR TRAVELLING WITH PURPOSE, THE MOTIVES FOR STUDENTS TO TAKE A GAP YEAR ARE INCREASINGLY NUANCED.
VALLETTA
In Malta’s harbour-framed capital, a rich and evolving art scene unfolds among honeyed baroque facades, echoing the global influences that have shaped the city over the centuries
A timeless city
Wander through artistic alleyways and along modern beachfronts in South Korea’s second city — a place where tradition and innovationgo hand in hand.
SANDS OF TIME
COVERING AROUND 800,000 SQUARE MILES, ALGERIA'S SHARE OF THE SAHARA TAKES UP OVER 80% OF THE COUNTRY - THE VOLCANIC PEAKS, CANYONS AND VAST SAND SEAS FORM A STRIKING BACKDROP TO OASIS CITIES AND UNIQUE NORTH AFRICAN CULTURES
Sumitra Acharya
THE HIMALAYAN TREKKING LEADER IS PART OF A NEW GENERATION OF NEPALESE WOMEN CLAIMING THEIR SPACE AMID SOME OF THE WORLD'S HIGHEST PEAKS
WHERE TO STAY ADELAIDE
A clutch of new design-led hotels pays tribute to the South Australian capital's landmarks
MUMBAI
Inventive chefs are sharing their stories through food in India's ever-evolving west coast metropolis, but the city's appetite for street food, thalis and Parsi dishes remains a comforting constant
FLINTSHIRE
Visit this North Wales county to sleep on a former prime minister's country estate, hike mountains and go foraging or wild swimming
Scandi cool
EXPLORE THE NORWEGIAN COASTLINE’S NEW OPENINGS AND CULTURAL EVENTS UNDER THIS SUMMER'S MIDNIGHT SUN