IN FASHION HISTORY there is surely no ensemble more emblematic of femininity than Christian Dior's New Look of 1947: that vast skirt and that nipped-in top half - the bar jacket, named after Monsieur Dior's favourite haunt at the Plaza Athénée in Paris.
And yet, for the latest Dior Homme collection, the bar jacket was remade for men. I wanted to celebrate 75 years of Dior, says Kim Jones, the British creative director at the house. I wanted to bring all his loves together: English tailoring, the flowers of his garden. I wanted to take a new look at the New Look.
The result is unquestionably mannish, its almost imperceptibly hourglass lines delivered by creating folds in a more conventional man's jacket shape. The raw edges add to the masculine feel, yet tucked away under the collar there is - whisper it - the most beauteous floral embroidery. Dior was set up after the Second World War to bring joy, color, and excitement to the world through fashion, Jones, 48, says. That's what I looked at, what I set out to do.
To be able to revisit the Dior archives and then to reinvent them is, he says, one of the brilliant aspects to heading up such a celebrated fashion house. When you are stuck for an idea you just go into the archive. There is always something new being added. Often I see something that should be part of a collection that I am working on, and I will call it in straight away.
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der Issue 178-Ausgabe von August Man SG.
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Diese Geschichte stammt aus der Issue 178-Ausgabe von August Man SG.
Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.
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