Mussel Memory
Saveur|Spring 2018

Dramatic tides make a mysterious disappearing act out of France’s moules de bouchot.

Kat Craddock
Mussel Memory

THE BAY OF MONT SAINT-MICHEL divides Normandy and Brittany on France’s northern coast. Twice a day, the bay rises as much as 50 feet and then slinks away. At low tide, one might meander through the exposed mussel farms more than 100 yards out to the looming medieval Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel. As the tide creeps back in, the shell- covered pillars vanish under the water’s surface, and the abbey appears to be stranded at sea.

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