The Viennese restaurant&nbsp;Werkstatt, on a commercial stretch in Prospect Park South, is a warm, casual pub, with&nbsp;metal-enamel&nbsp;signs in German, a mermaid taken from the bow of an old wooden boat, and a vintage Triumph motorcycle hanging from the wall. To uninformed first-timers, it might seem like just a particularly nice corner local, which is part of its appeal. In fact, the owner and operator, Thomas&nbsp;Ferlesch, has been a leading chef in New York since he emigrated from Austria, nearly four decades ago, to run the kitchen at Vienna 79, on the Upper East Side. In his first year there, at twenty-four, he was awarded a four-star review by the Times. He later went on to the legendary&nbsp;Caf&eacute;&nbsp;des Artistes.&nbsp;Werkstatt&nbsp;is his &ldquo;workshop,&rdquo; he says, where he can cook whatever he wants (specials have included red coconut chicken curry and Tokyo ramen), in a neighborhood near where he lives. He is there most days, spotted giving his wife and co-owner, Robin, a kiss, or wandering among the tables, asking no one in particular, &ldquo;Where&rsquo;s my wife?&rdquo; It feels like his home; its patrons are his lucky guests.To start, order a big pretzel. The&nbsp;gooeysoft, buttery rope of blistered, browned dough arrives with yellow mustard&nbsp;and&nbsp;house-made&nbsp;Hungarian&nbsp;Liptauer&nbsp;cheese, blushing with paprika. For dinner, have an unctuous, tangy bratwurst or smoked Polish kielbasa, served on a heaping pile of sauerkraut and potatoes. A leek risotto with Brussels sprouts and mushrooms is creamy, grassy, and addictive. The tender beef goulash with&nbsp;sp&auml;tzle&nbsp;will make anyone with a grandparent from the Old Country cry. The Wiener, chicken, and celery-root schnitzels are crispy and moist; four vinegary, fresh side salads&mdash; cucumber, tomato, cabbage, and potato, redolent with caraway&mdash;finish each plate. Even the burger stands out, thanks to a lip-smacking bacon-onion marmalade.For brunch, the French toast with a tangy apricot filling is a fluffy&nbsp;egg-flourand-sugar&nbsp;cloud&mdash;a reminder that&nbsp;Ferlesch&nbsp;is the rare chef who is as adept with meat as with pastry. (His father was a bread baker.) For dessert, try the apple strudel, the&nbsp;Linzer&nbsp;torte, or the&nbsp;palatschinken, an Austrian&nbsp;cr&ecirc;pe, and, when one of the friendly servers offers up a mug of steaming&nbsp;gl&uuml;hwein&nbsp;to wash it all down, accept without hesitation.&nbsp;Ferlesch&nbsp;inherited the art of homey efficiency from his mother, who used to make noodles in their tiny apartment in Vienna, &ldquo;and dried them on top of her bed,&rdquo; he said recently. &ldquo;She removed them at night and put them back in the morning.&rdquo; Some fifty years later,&nbsp;Ferlesch&nbsp;has created a place as sweet as that memory. (Dishes $7-$19.)

Food & Drink - Werkstatt

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