Even if you're not into a sea urchin, you would probably dig this restaurant,” Justin Theroux says as if he’s letting me in on a secret. “Everyone knows Jiro Dreams of Sushi”—the Netflix documentary about the slavishly devoted sushi chef Jiro Ono—“but this place is billed as the place that Jiro likes to go.”
It’s hidden where all the best places in Tokyo are: through a back alley and past an unremarkable building that leads to an unmarked door. And the sea urchin. Oh, man— the sea urchin! The dish requires surgical precision from the chef: The spiny shells are split open; then the meat is scooped out and whipped into rice that’s been vinegared and cured for a few days. The whole thing is garnished with a couple more ounces of the spineless creature for good measure. “The trick to that place is giving you just enough to make you want it so much more,” Theroux says fondly. It’s a dish so good you want seconds, thirds, fourths, and fifths.
You see, Theroux loves Tokyo. Not because he has his familiar spots, his favorite hangs, or the one restaurant he always goes back to. It’s just the opposite. “It always feels like it’s too brief, being in Tokyo. The draw that keeps you going back is that it’s a very hard place to tack