On The Waterfront

Find out how the funds from last year’s Birdfair will help the wildlife of Argentina’s largest lake.

- Mike Dilger

Gazing down on a swirling flock of flamingos, from the lofty position of our six-seater Piper Cherokee, is perhaps the best, and most privileged, way to enjoy one of South America’s greatest avian gatherings. Taking in the huge expanse of water below, it’s hard to believe we’re not flying over ocean but rather the continent’s second-largest inland water body – Mar Chiquita.

Translating as ‘little sea’, Mar Chiquita is a vast endorheic saline lake in northcentral Argentina, extending for some 80km by 45km. Designated as both a Ramsar site and an Important Bird and Biodiversity Area (IBA), it plays host to most of the world’s Chilean flamingos, a population boosted in winter by up to 18,000 rare Andean flamingos and a smaller number of puna flamingos – completing the holy trinity of South American phoenicopterids.

Given the lake’s colossal size, the only practicable way to carry out any wildlife census is by air. Counting the flamingos alongside me are Argentinian biologists Walter Cejas and Natalia Vreys, along with Tim Appleton. Tim is, of course, famous in the birding world for founding, with Martin Davies, the British Birdwatching Fair 30 years ago. Starting off life as little more than a couple of marquees in a field adjacent to Rutland Water, near Oakham, Birdfair has since grown exponentially to become an essential fixture in the calendar of many naturalists.

Birds of a feather

Dubbed the ‘Glastonbury for birders’, Birdfair’s annual jamboree represents an opportunity to meet like-minded folk, exchange wildlife-watching anecdotes and discuss all things feathered. Each August, the fair is additionally graced by a smattering of faces from the world of natural history broadcasting – including Chris Packham, Simon King and, dare I say, me – pitching up for three days to deliver talks, chair panels and sign books.