As surfers, the environment that we partake in is filled with various risk.
Surfers are often referred to as thrill seekers or branded as “Mad”. Yet whatever those that haven’t caught the infectious bug of riding an uncontrollable mass of water think of us, we, as a whole, are accepting of the risks and dangers involved. We share the ocean with others, and when I say others that encompasses other surfers which we have no control over, then there are the various forms of wildlife that we share this environment with. Then we have all the risks associated with entering this un-controllable environment, the fact that we weren’t designed to breathe water or that the power of this great ocean and its waves can show no mercy, and while in an attempt to tame a breaking swell by riding it, being thrown through the air, manhandled and held deep under the surface. Then in the blink of an eye, the elements can combine to create rips, currents and ocean surfaces that overpower any human regardless of how strong, fit or experienced they are. Basically, if you live your life around the ocean, especially as a surfer, there will come a time when you or someone you know will find themselves in a battle for their lives against one of these elements.
Here we share the miraculous stories of three of our surfers who recently stared death in the face and lived to tell the tale. Rod Rusts near drowning! Andrew Brough’s escape from the jaws of a Great White and Shon Turfrey swept 10.5K out to sea.
ROD RUST
THE BEST WAVE OF MY LIFE
This has been a hard story to write. I have never advocated surfing alone, but have very often done it. It has been part of the essence of the experience for me… Being able to catch up with my thinking, exploring, not just what is around that next corner, or over that hill, but the territory of the soul… my own.
This story is from the Issue 184 edition of NZ SURFING MAGAZINE.
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This story is from the Issue 184 edition of NZ SURFING MAGAZINE.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
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