At Maison Yaki, the skewers are Japanese, the sauces are French, and the portions are tiny.
AFTER MANAGING, by some miracle, to manufacture a first critical success, talented young chefs like Greg Baxtrom, whose hit restaurant Olmsted is still drawing crowds out in Prospect Heights, tend to be faced with a variety of perilous follow-up options. There’s the prudent, non-expansionist “tend your garden” option (à la Gabrielle Hamilton at Prune), which will keep your regulars in the neighborhood happy but may not result in a financial windfall anytime soon. There’s the fast-casual scheme (upon which many a dream of culinary fortune has been shipwrecked) and the franchise-dealin-Vegas (or Manhattan) option (ditto). There’s the shoot-for-the-stars “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” alternative (also risky), or the more deliberate neighborhood-empire-building strategy pioneered by various chefs and restaurateurs (David Chang, Danny Meyer, Jody Williams and Rita Sodi) over the years in their different corners of the city.
This story is from the August 19 - September 1, 2019 edition of New York magazine.
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This story is from the August 19 - September 1, 2019 edition of New York magazine.
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