If there’s anyone in fashion who could conjure the Eiffel Tower’s glittering splendour on cue for a runway show in Paris, it is Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent. Granted, it wasn’t the first time the maison’s creative director had pulled off a theatrical stunt—spotlights illuminated an almost-bare set for Autumn/Winter ’18—but such an honour could only have been bestowed upon those who are most worthy. Needless to say, the designer has rightly earned his stripes. Ever since taking the reins in 2017, it’s been an upward trajectory for Vaccarello, whose approach has never been any more in tune with the house’s liberated-femme DNA. Those who are familiar with his work can attest to that; the designer’s eponymous freshman collection from Autumn/Winter ’11— straight after bagging the coveted Festival d’Hyères prize, no less—is a compelling reminder of this season’s offerings at Saint Laurent. Billowing chiffons in dramatic blacks, micro micro-shorts, and pelvic bonehigh slits ... all hallmarks of the Vaccarello woman, and the maison itself. Still, the creative director takes great care to mind the legacy he’s inherited, culminating into a Spring/Summer ’19 collection that was equal-part Vaccarello and equal-part Monsieur Yves.
Always referential but never derivative, Vaccarello’s pieces once again looked back to the founder’s famed Scandal collection