Neo-primitivism is the new avant-garde.
Chefs around the world from Stockholm to Singapore are returning to one of the oldest and most primal methods of cooking inspired by the distinct flavours that only smoke and flame can impart. It couldn’t be further removed from the last decade’s obsession with sous vide when it seemed almost rude to be aware the chef was cooking. Cooking on flaming wood is visceral and almost invariably becomes the focal point in the dining room.
Cast aside any preconceptions that open fire cooking is simple. It takes great skill to be an alchemist with direct heat.
“Every time I cook with fire it is different. The heat becomes an active ingredient in each dish and every time it cooks differently. That’s what makes it so exciting and technically challenging to the chef,” says Tomos Parry. His new restaurant Brat (www. bratrestaurant.com) in London’s Shoreditch has wowed critics. Parry openly acknowledges that he is hugely influenced by Basque open fire techniques. Like many chefs firing away worldwide, he cites time spent at Asador Etxebarri (www.asadoretxebarri.com) deep in rural Basque countryside cooking with self taught fire master Victor Arguinzoniz as a lifechanging pilgrimage. Arguinzoniz even designed and built his own giant cooking racks.
He is credited with igniting the almost cultish obsession with varying the wood to impart different fruit f lavours to cook giant Palamos prawns, outstanding beef chop and even ice cream.
Getaria, a small coastal village, is another hearth of pilgrimage where the top chefs of San Sebastian (Elena Arzak, Andoni of Mugaritz) are known to eat.
This story is from the February 2019 edition of Robb Report Singapore.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the February 2019 edition of Robb Report Singapore.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
The Man Behind The Glow
Lars Brittsjo, the visionary CEO and founder behind Nor Sken, discusses the evolution of anti-ageing solutions and the ethos of sustainable beauty.
Fresh Linen
Travellers seeking accommodation options that excite and inspire can approach 2024 with optimism.
Run For Cava
José Ferrer of Vins Familia Ferrer on what makes seriously good vintage cava.
Heart Of Africa
Great Plains Conservation blends bespoke luxury and mindful conservation, offering an African safari experience par excellence.
A Week In Switzerland
There is no better place for watch connoisseurs to get immersed in watchmaking than the birthplace of horology—and no better way to plan the journey than with Scott Dunn Private.
Welcome To The Club
The decadent new Global Ambassador hotel in Phoenix welcomes elite travellers of all stripes-but its most intriguing attraction is for members only.
Flights Of Fancy
The Un Air de Chaumet high jewellery collection soars with evocative expressions of birds in flight.
The World On Your Wrist
Vacheron Constantin goes globe-hopping for its latest Les Cabinotiers collection of one-of-a-kind timepieces.
Signature Moves
An A. Lange Séhne watch can be identified from five paces away. However, for its truly distinctive features, we recommend that you reach for the loupe.
Counting It Down
Luxury watch brands are teasing collectors with new drops ahead of the anticipated annual Watches and Wonders exposition.