Never mind Mars or Venus – food comes only from the heart.
Midway through the meal, the chefs enter the Forlino dining room. They neither pose nor glower, nor lap up adulation like F1 champions. Instead, Giovanna Milanese-Randone, Gianna Fossati and Maresa Biovi weave between tables to personally top up our plates with verdantly pestoed pasta.
It’s something of a watershed moment for this 20th edition of the World Gourmet Summit. “People get a little bit bored of these Michelin stars, so we’ve tried something different,” says Paolo Randone, Giovanna’s son and the then-GM of the Singapore-based DHM restaurant group. Hence Le Tre Mamme, the three mothers and guest cooks, presenting Ligurian classics prepared by their own non-restaurant-trained homemaking hands.
Chefs and mothers. The image of a mother planting a culinary seed in her progeny that later blossoms into chefhood is a powerful trope. French chef and TV personality Eric Ripert, of Le Bernardin fame, chronicles a childhood and apprenticeship filled with nurturing mother figures (and abusive masculine mentors) in his autobiography 32 Yolks. Chef-founder of New York City’s Prune, Gabrielle Hamilton writes with vehement eloquence about maternity’s light and dark sides in her memoir Blood, Bones & Butter, even of how the grinding multitasking it requires carries over to sharpen one’s line-cook skills.
This story is from the April 2017 edition of The PEAK Singapore.
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This story is from the April 2017 edition of The PEAK Singapore.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
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