Amar Grover treks hills and scours temple towns for signs of devotion.
The first thing I noticed approaching the town of Gingee was the odd hills— islands of bare rock studding the lush green paddies of rural Tamil Nadu. Proximity soon revealed their whimsical texture with weirdly-eroded granite boulders jumbling their summits and littering their slopes. Then, on the edge of town, I reached a curious triangulation of muscular hills—Krishnagiri, Rajgiri and Chandragiri—linked by the bristling fortifications and stern masonry walls of Gingee Fort. In Tamil Nadu, almost all roads lead to the medieval Cholas, the south’s greatest and most powerful dynasty. I’m here on the road not taken by many to explore the remains of that era—as satisfying a way as any to get under the skin of a state rich insights and culture. I’d left Chennai after a leisurely breakfast to reach Gingee by lunchtime; now it’s atmospheric hills and time-forgotten ruins ushered an afternoon’s exploring.
Spread over approximately eleven square kilometers, much of Gingee comprises a rugged hillside that is home to monkeys, mongooses, and parakeets. I set out up a long flight of steps weaving between boulders to the summit of Krishnagiri. I’m thrilled to have its clutch of part-ruined granaries, temples, and an audience hall almost to myself, with far-reaching views across the entire site. To the south lies Chandragiri, its sparse structures are given sparser access by the Forest Department.
Far more arresting is Rajgiri, its sloping shoulders crowned by a great hulk of smooth rock resembling a giant slightly worn molar. Seemingly inaccessible, it houses Gingee’s lofty citadel—if you only have the stamina for one summit, this should be it. Huddled beneath Rajgiri is the inner fort where I ambled among surviving barracks, stables, stepped tanks and mosques. This enclave’s real landmark is the Kalyana Mahal, a seven-story tower with a pagoda-style roof.
This story is from the August - September 2019 edition of Condé Nast Traveller India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the August - September 2019 edition of Condé Nast Traveller India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
TOP RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023
The ranking of India's 50 most exciting restaurants was revealed at a glittering ceremony at the Taj Lands End, Mumbai. Returning after a three-year hiatus, the event was a true celebration of the industry and the brightest stars of the fraternity showed up to support and cheer each other on!
ON THE GO
Our pick of the most stylish finds and travel related news
TANGIER RISING
THE CREATIVE VISIONARIES OF MOROCCO'S OFT-ROMANTICISED PORT CITY ARE TELLING A NEW STORY.
BRUSHES WITH NATURE
On the snowy Japanese island of Hokkaido, a rich seam of creativity and craftsmanship is deeply rooted in the physical world-and in a sacred Ainu tradition that has survived here for centuries
KOLKATA: A WINDOW TO THE FUTURE
In a city filled with colonial nostalgia, a a new restoration story and fresh approaches are changing the narrative, one building at a time.
VICTORIA BECKHAM
From Paris to Portofino via Los Angeles, the fashion designer shares the places and personal stories that have inspired her first fragrance collection
SHOPPING IN SEOUL
South Korea's capital may have grown into a pop-culture powerhouse, but its artisans are keeping ancient craft traditions alive.
POSTCARD FROM COLOGNE
Rimowa's Emelie De Vitis on her favourite places for espressos, botanical cocktails, relaxed dinners, art, architecture, and history in the German city that she and the cult luggage brand call home
DEEP DIVE DUBAI
Residents know there's more to this diverse emirate than meets the eye. The ones who shaped it share their favourite spots.
Winter Wanderlust
Embrace the best of the season with these standout winter experiences.