Abhishek Madhukar visited this hill town a decade ago and decided to make it his home. He shares his favourites.
Dharamsala,” my mother says, when well-meaning relatives ask her where I am. Some frown, unsure if they should ask. Eventually they do: “But where does he live?” My chosen abode is nestled in the foothills above the Kangra Valley, surrounded by the Dhauladhar Mountains in the Outer Himalayas. It’s a tiny north Indian hill town, crossed by car in 30 minutes. And the name literally means ‘a place of shelter’— traditionally for those on a religious or spiritual quest. A place of rest, respite and refuge.
For me, Dharamsala would not be what it is today without the presence of one man who arrived in the early 1960s seeking refuge. Today, Tibet’s 14th Dalai Lama is the lodestar bringing year-round tourism to this hill. His image is framed on the walls of every shop and café, whether it’s run by Indians or Tibetans. His “palace”, whose appearance hardly justifies the term, is typical of the region, with its corrugated green roof and yellow stone and cement walls featuring beautiful wood and glasswork. Next door, the Tsuglakhang Temple is a simply built yellow structure, with open courtyards and utilitarian halls housing Sakyamuni Buddha’s gilded statue along with Padmasambhava and Avalokiteshvara—the Buddha of Compassion, whose reincarnation the Dalai Lama is believed to be. The region, surrounded by pine and deodar forests, overlooks the distant houses in the valley below.
The stamp of Tibet’s endangered culture is imprinted on the hillside; strings of multicoloured prayer flags flutter between trees, on monasteries, across motorbike handlebars. Brocade mounted paintings of deities beckon from shop windows. Prayer bells and recorded Buddhist chants compete with the car horns of tourists along the narrow streets of McLeod Ganj, a congested neighbourhood easily covered on foot in about an hour.
This story is from the June/July 2017 edition of Condé Nast Traveller India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the June/July 2017 edition of Condé Nast Traveller India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
TOP RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023
The ranking of India's 50 most exciting restaurants was revealed at a glittering ceremony at the Taj Lands End, Mumbai. Returning after a three-year hiatus, the event was a true celebration of the industry and the brightest stars of the fraternity showed up to support and cheer each other on!
ON THE GO
Our pick of the most stylish finds and travel related news
TANGIER RISING
THE CREATIVE VISIONARIES OF MOROCCO'S OFT-ROMANTICISED PORT CITY ARE TELLING A NEW STORY.
BRUSHES WITH NATURE
On the snowy Japanese island of Hokkaido, a rich seam of creativity and craftsmanship is deeply rooted in the physical world-and in a sacred Ainu tradition that has survived here for centuries
KOLKATA: A WINDOW TO THE FUTURE
In a city filled with colonial nostalgia, a a new restoration story and fresh approaches are changing the narrative, one building at a time.
VICTORIA BECKHAM
From Paris to Portofino via Los Angeles, the fashion designer shares the places and personal stories that have inspired her first fragrance collection
SHOPPING IN SEOUL
South Korea's capital may have grown into a pop-culture powerhouse, but its artisans are keeping ancient craft traditions alive.
POSTCARD FROM COLOGNE
Rimowa's Emelie De Vitis on her favourite places for espressos, botanical cocktails, relaxed dinners, art, architecture, and history in the German city that she and the cult luggage brand call home
DEEP DIVE DUBAI
Residents know there's more to this diverse emirate than meets the eye. The ones who shaped it share their favourite spots.
Winter Wanderlust
Embrace the best of the season with these standout winter experiences.