The Inside Story
National Geographic Traveller (UK)|July / August 2017

Venture inland to find the real Jamaica: meet the ‘children of Nanny’, descended from runaway slaves; sip the sumptuous coffee of the famous Blue Mountains; or ride with a rasta through the karst hills of Cockpit Country.

Stephanie Cavagnaro
The Inside Story

Colonel Wallace Sterling has slipped into a soliloquy, eulogising Nanny — a warrior woman who knew every fold of these mountains, and how to remain camouflaged within them. She was a shape-shifter; a soldier whose weapon was the land. She’d slide behind a curtain of falls, withdraw into caves and disappear within the creeping, chokingly dense forests that nosedive down the John Crow Mountains and crash into the rushing Rio Grande. “That’s why we say we are Grande Nanny yoyo — we are all children of Grande Nanny.”

Vanishing into his house, the colonel leaves me outside, where the sun bakes a sweet sedation into the landscape. A kitten is lazily tracing infinity symbols between my legs when the colonel emerges with a Ghanaian kuficap, beat-up Nike trainers and a machete. It’s time to find Nanny. I follow him along an asphalt road that fades into a forested footpath, where the swelling greenery is so rampant epiphytes even sprout from overhead electrical wires.

“As a colonel, you’re the person that’s in charge,” he says with a one-tooth smile. For 21 years, the colonel has been the leader of semi-autonomous Moore Town — a community descended from the fearsome Windward Maroons, a group of West Africans who escaped slavery in the 17th century and fled to Jamaica’s mountainous interior. “Look around,” he urges. “All of this is surrounded by mountains, right? You can get ready protection for the community.”

This story is from the July / August 2017 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the July / August 2017 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER (UK)View All
The craftspeople of Sarawak
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

The craftspeople of Sarawak

From ancient pottery to embroidery fit for Miss World, meet the producers championing traditional artisanal creations in Malaysia's island region.

time-read
5 mins  |
January/February 2024
ALTERNATIVE WINTER EXPERIENCES
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

ALTERNATIVE WINTER EXPERIENCES

From ice skating and cross-country skiing to snowy train rides and cosy cabins stays, there are many memorable ways to make the most of the European winter

time-read
6 mins  |
January/February 2024
GOLDEN YEARS
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

GOLDEN YEARS

Join the celebrations century of statehood as the island marks half a with fireworks and parades

time-read
1 min  |
January/February 2024
A TASTE OF The Philippines
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

A TASTE OF The Philippines

A TRIO OF BIG, BOLD FLAVOURS DOMINATES THIS ARCHIPELAGO NATION'S UNIQUE CUISINE

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2024
WHERE TO STAY Helsinki
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

WHERE TO STAY Helsinki

FINLAND'S CAPITAL HAS AN OFFBEAT SIDE THAT SHINES THROUGH IN ITS CREATIVE HOTEL SCENE

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2024
A YEAR OF ADVENTURE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

A YEAR OF ADVENTURE

Make 2024 one to remember with these epic trips, putting fairytale castles, cultural exchange and slow travel front and centre

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2024
Bear Grylls
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Bear Grylls

THE TV PRESENTER AND FORMER SAS OFFICER ON RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL, COMFORT ZONES AND EXPLORING THE WORLD ON HIS DOORSTEP

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2024
BOSTON
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BOSTON

In the 19th century, Boston was nicknamed 'The Hub of the Solar System' such was its importance at the heart of the young American nation.

time-read
5 mins  |
January/February 2024
BALI
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BALI

Known for its beaches, jungles and colourful temples, the Indonesian island of Bali is also home to a vibrant and hugely varied offering of local dishes, from grilled octopus with starfruit to rich Padang-style curry

time-read
5 mins  |
January/February 2024
MANCHESTER
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

MANCHESTER

A spirit of rebellious creativity infuses the northern city, with old factories turned into artists' studios and a unique sense of style on display throughout

time-read
7 mins  |
January/February 2024