We discover the alternative Amazon: a land of rhythmic cities, wild archipelagos and the Tapajós – a mosquito free white-sand wonder unlike anywhere else in Brazil…
Inland, the wall of dark green trees ran unbroken by roads or cities for 2,500 kilometres. The floral scents of the forest mixed with the warm air wafting in from the bays, islands and beaches. This could have been the coast of Thailand, but I was actually on the banks of a Brazilian river – the Tapajós – a clearwater tributary of the Amazon set deep in lowland tropical forest.
While most travellers access the forest from the Andes – through Peru or Ecuador – I’d chosen to visit a very different stretch, closer to the river’s mouth in Brazil, where vast waterways flowed as wide as small seas. On TV, the Amazon was always being wandered by sweaty, insect-baffled explorers with thick trousers tucked into their socks, but with new flights bringing this region within easy reach, I wanted to see an alternative side to this legendary river: balmy, beach-lined and bug-free.
Finding a rhythm
My flight had brought me to Belém, the capital of Amazon-Brazil’s Pará state. From above, its cluster of jagged concrete spires appeared almost overrun by great swathes of forest, except where a huge chocolate-brown river dotted with tankers scythed through the green. Stepping offthe plane, the air hit me immediately: aromatic, as warm as melting butter and energised by the hot, bright sunlight. “Welcome to the Amazon,” said my guide, Gelderson.
This story is from the June 2017 edition of Wanderlust Travel Magazine.
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This story is from the June 2017 edition of Wanderlust Travel Magazine.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Vermont, USA
The Wanderlust team relocated to New England for part of this issue, as we explored a lush state filled with outdoor escapes, historic towns... and lashings of maple syrup
Unique North America
See a side to the USA and Canada beyond the big cities and discover incredible stories and special wildlife with our pick of the trips
The call of the Rockies
From historic ski lodges to rustic backcountry cabins and a mock-Scottish castle, we pick the stays in Canada's Rocky Mountains that make the most of their setting
A new dawn for the Garifuna community
When the Garifuna people settled in Belize, they had to carry their traditions and culture with them; now a new trail is inviting visitors to explore this heritage through local communities
On the edge of history
In south-west Colorado lies the largest archaeological preserve in the USA, a series of vast cliff dwellings whose residents 'vanished' overnight. But was the answer to their disappearance in plain sight?
Tigers burning bright
As India celebrates 50 years of its Project Tiger conservation scheme, we visit the reserves of Madhya Pradesh to see how its success has impacted a tiger population that once looked in danger of disappearing
SEASON'S GREETINGS
From fiery fall foliage to art fairs and harvest festivals, opens up a wealth of across the USA and Canada autumn experiences
Waking a sleeping GIANT
A slow drive along the North Wales Way, from the English border to Anglesey, reveals not only a land of incredible local food and castles, but a region that is slowly reimagining itself
The rebirth of old JEDDAH
As efforts to restore Al-Balad, Jeddah's historical district, take hold, we get an exclusive peek at how art and culture are taking centre stage
Star-studded escapes
Wilderness, history and wildlife combine at some of Britain's most iconic stargazing sites, as more and more travellers are looking to the heavens
