Vanity Fair
Rock Legend Image Credit: Vanity Fair
Rock Legend Image Credit: Vanity Fair

Rock Legend

Rough and rare gems become exquisite showstoppers in the hands of Dior’s Victoire de Castellane

Mary Alice Miller

Victoire de Castellane doesn’t play favorites. Of the countless pieces she has designed as the creative director of Dior Fine Jewelry for more than 20 years, there isn’t a ring, earring, or necklace that she prefers over another. “I would love to have one of each color for each day of the week,” she says of the designs, many of which she wears in rotation, in a dazzling display of the art she’s been creating since she first arrived at Dior, in Paris, over two decades ago. “To me, making jewelry is a language,” she says. “It’s my way of expressing myself in the world.” Her vocabulary is one of playful imagination and vivid opulence, her designs an amalgam of organic textures reminiscent of sugar crystals, coral reefs, shards of rime. Each piece is de Castellane’s interpretation of the world around her, which has changed radically since the beginning of her career at Chanel in 1984. “When I arrived,” she says, “all of the jewelry houses were not how I imagined.” The lack of women jewelry designers in 1980s Paris perplexed and motivated de Castellane. She had grown up studying the work of great early- to mid-century designers, such as Suzanne Belperron and Jeanne Toussaint, women who “created jewelry for women,” she explains. “I don’t know what happened in the ’60s and ’70s, but after that it was really a man’s world. And it was

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