Where is everyone?
The thought nags at me as I sit on a bench overlooking Witsand’s main beach. Behind me, the parking lot is deserted except for the Renault Duster that photographer Shelley
Christians and I came herein. At the far end of the parking lot is The Anchorage Beach Restaurant, a block-like structure made less imposing by its cheerful blue-and-white paint job. It’s early September and a trail of smoke rises from the chimney, merging with the fog blowing in off the ocean.
I scan the horizon in vain for southern right whales. If only the weather would lift! Hermanus might offer more famous land-based whale watching, but this is South Africa’s true whale nursery. In 2013, the Mammal Research Institute of South Africa counted 82 calves with their mothers in this bay alone – a record number.
Fog still hovers over the water and I’m reminded of an expression I learned while I was traveling in notoriously dark and damp Ireland: “They say the clouds are lower in Ireland. I say Ireland is closer to heaven.”
Perhaps a similar theory applies to Witsand. Shelley is five months pregnant and needs a nail file immediately, or else. Having survived my older sister’s pregnancies, I know it’s best not to ask questions and execute the request as soon as possible. That’s how I find myself browsing the aisles of The Sands for fruit pastilles, while Shelley hunts for toiletries.
A woman with a clipboard and a British accent comes over to ask if I need any help. She’s Judy Haigh-Smith, co-owner of the general dealer, one of two in town. There’s no Spar or Checkers in Witsand.
“It’s a town of swallows, darling,” she says. “During December it fills up with tourists and the like, but now we’re extremely quiet. I even have to send some of my staff home because there simply isn’t enough to do.”
This story is from the January 2020 edition of go! - South Africa.
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This story is from the January 2020 edition of go! - South Africa.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
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