MILAN
National Geographic Traveller (UK)|Lombary 2020
The world’s fashion capital has long conjured up images of runway shows and haute couture, but tucked away in hidden corners is the real Milan, a treasure trove of museums, public art, jewellers and gin bars
JULIA BUCKLEY
MILAN

It’s hard to believe that Milan hasn’t always been one of Italy’s big hitters. There’s Milan Cathedral, a frothy wedding cake of a building dripping in gothic spires and statues. Then there’s Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper and the grand Sforza Castle. There’s food from across Italy, and vintage trams to get around in. But somehow, Milan’s reputation as Italy’s business and fashion capital has overshadowed its other draws. That’s because this is a city where you need to scratch under the surface to find the gold. Through nondescript doorways lurk flower-filled courtyards and cloisters; museums and fashion HQs lie in former 19th-century factories. The real Milan is marvellous — just hit the Metro stops, and look beyond the crowds, to find it.

City centre

At the central point of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II — the world’s most gorgeous shopping mall, where arched glass roofs spill over-elaborate 19th-century buildings — tourists are swarming round a mosaic of a rearing bull. One by one, they stamp their foot on its balls and spin around.

The ritual, supposedly, brings good luck. And it chokes up the Galleria every day. But I’m watching from a heavenly remove, one floor up.

From Vikissimo — the restaurant at the Galleria Vik Milano hotel, which opened last year — I can make out individual stones in the roof mosaics, and swarthy caryatids propping up the building. It’s a new perspective on one of the city’s most recognised monuments.

But that’s the thing about Milan: there’s a city for tourists and one for the Milanese. Even in the centre, right by the Duomo cathedral, the locals’ one lurks in plain sight.

This story is from the Lombary 2020 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the Lombary 2020 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER (UK)View All
The craftspeople of Sarawak
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

The craftspeople of Sarawak

From ancient pottery to embroidery fit for Miss World, meet the producers championing traditional artisanal creations in Malaysia's island region.

time-read
5 mins  |
January/February 2024
ALTERNATIVE WINTER EXPERIENCES
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

ALTERNATIVE WINTER EXPERIENCES

From ice skating and cross-country skiing to snowy train rides and cosy cabins stays, there are many memorable ways to make the most of the European winter

time-read
6 mins  |
January/February 2024
GOLDEN YEARS
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

GOLDEN YEARS

Join the celebrations century of statehood as the island marks half a with fireworks and parades

time-read
1 min  |
January/February 2024
A TASTE OF The Philippines
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

A TASTE OF The Philippines

A TRIO OF BIG, BOLD FLAVOURS DOMINATES THIS ARCHIPELAGO NATION'S UNIQUE CUISINE

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2024
WHERE TO STAY Helsinki
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

WHERE TO STAY Helsinki

FINLAND'S CAPITAL HAS AN OFFBEAT SIDE THAT SHINES THROUGH IN ITS CREATIVE HOTEL SCENE

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2024
A YEAR OF ADVENTURE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

A YEAR OF ADVENTURE

Make 2024 one to remember with these epic trips, putting fairytale castles, cultural exchange and slow travel front and centre

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2024
Bear Grylls
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Bear Grylls

THE TV PRESENTER AND FORMER SAS OFFICER ON RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL, COMFORT ZONES AND EXPLORING THE WORLD ON HIS DOORSTEP

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2024
BOSTON
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BOSTON

In the 19th century, Boston was nicknamed 'The Hub of the Solar System' such was its importance at the heart of the young American nation.

time-read
5 mins  |
January/February 2024
BALI
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BALI

Known for its beaches, jungles and colourful temples, the Indonesian island of Bali is also home to a vibrant and hugely varied offering of local dishes, from grilled octopus with starfruit to rich Padang-style curry

time-read
5 mins  |
January/February 2024
MANCHESTER
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

MANCHESTER

A spirit of rebellious creativity infuses the northern city, with old factories turned into artists' studios and a unique sense of style on display throughout

time-read
7 mins  |
January/February 2024