Gaggan Anand: The Pioneer
National Geographic Traveller (UK)|Food #3 December 2018

Kolkata-born Gaggan Anand Cut His Teeth At Elbulli Before Spending A Decade In Bangkok Refining His Modern Spin On Tr Aditional Indian Cuisine. Now The Chef Is He Ading For Japan With His Sights Set On Redefining Fine Dining.

Stefan Chomka
Gaggan Anand: The Pioneer

At Gaggan restaurant in Bangkok, diners are presented with tasting menu with a difference — each of the 25 dishes is listed using a single emoji. Examples have included a butterfly, a bunch of flowers, a lemon, an explosion and some lips.

This isn’t a crafty attempt by chef Gaggan Anand to appeal to Generation Z customers, however — having claimed top spot on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants for the past four years, prices reflect this acclaim, meaning only the most dedicated of gastronomes tend to beat a path to his door. Instead, the emojis represent the various emotions associated with eating and the playfulness of Anand’s ground-breaking modernist Indian cuisine.

Opened in 2010, Gaggan is Anand’s successful attempt at redefining Indian food and elevating it to the top table of gastronomy, to sit alongside the likes of French and Italian cuisine. “Indian food has such a deep-rooted history, it has evolved in culture and history, but it hadn’t moved on like other cuisines,” he says. “In India, we’re extremely good at cooking good food family-style, but when it comes to fine dining it collapses. I wanted to change the perception of Indian food; that was the challenge.”

Eight years on and Anand has certainly done that. With a typical meal comprising a progression of small, highly impactful dishes, such as his renowned spherified ‘Yogurt

Explosion’ and ‘Lick it Up’ — where guests are instructed to lick the food straight from the plate while the Kiss song of the same name plays in the background — Gaggan is now regarded as one of the most progressive restaurants in the world. In short, it’s done for Indian food what elBulli did for Spanish cuisine two decades previously.

This story is from the Food #3 December 2018 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the Food #3 December 2018 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER (UK)View All
The craftspeople of Sarawak
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

The craftspeople of Sarawak

From ancient pottery to embroidery fit for Miss World, meet the producers championing traditional artisanal creations in Malaysia's island region.

time-read
5 mins  |
January/February 2024
ALTERNATIVE WINTER EXPERIENCES
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

ALTERNATIVE WINTER EXPERIENCES

From ice skating and cross-country skiing to snowy train rides and cosy cabins stays, there are many memorable ways to make the most of the European winter

time-read
6 mins  |
January/February 2024
GOLDEN YEARS
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

GOLDEN YEARS

Join the celebrations century of statehood as the island marks half a with fireworks and parades

time-read
1 min  |
January/February 2024
A TASTE OF The Philippines
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

A TASTE OF The Philippines

A TRIO OF BIG, BOLD FLAVOURS DOMINATES THIS ARCHIPELAGO NATION'S UNIQUE CUISINE

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2024
WHERE TO STAY Helsinki
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

WHERE TO STAY Helsinki

FINLAND'S CAPITAL HAS AN OFFBEAT SIDE THAT SHINES THROUGH IN ITS CREATIVE HOTEL SCENE

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2024
A YEAR OF ADVENTURE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

A YEAR OF ADVENTURE

Make 2024 one to remember with these epic trips, putting fairytale castles, cultural exchange and slow travel front and centre

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2024
Bear Grylls
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Bear Grylls

THE TV PRESENTER AND FORMER SAS OFFICER ON RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL, COMFORT ZONES AND EXPLORING THE WORLD ON HIS DOORSTEP

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2024
BOSTON
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BOSTON

In the 19th century, Boston was nicknamed 'The Hub of the Solar System' such was its importance at the heart of the young American nation.

time-read
5 mins  |
January/February 2024
BALI
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BALI

Known for its beaches, jungles and colourful temples, the Indonesian island of Bali is also home to a vibrant and hugely varied offering of local dishes, from grilled octopus with starfruit to rich Padang-style curry

time-read
5 mins  |
January/February 2024
MANCHESTER
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

MANCHESTER

A spirit of rebellious creativity infuses the northern city, with old factories turned into artists' studios and a unique sense of style on display throughout

time-read
7 mins  |
January/February 2024