&iquest;C&oacute;mo no nos iba a gustar una ciudad que tuvo por alcalde a uno de los principales gastr&oacute;nomos gallegos, que tiene por hero&iacute;na local a una mujer de armas tomar y que se cas&oacute; cuatro veces, que alberga la cuna de la naci&oacute;n celta y la tumba de un general brit&aacute;nico con fantasma incluido?Dicen que nadie va a La Coru&ntilde;a si no es por alg&uacute;n motivo, porque su ubicaci&oacute;n no la hace tierra de paso. Eso ha hecho de la estrecha pen&iacute;nsula que habitan los coru&ntilde;eses un lugar muy especial; durante generaciones han luchado por hacerlo m&aacute;s amable frente a las inclemencias de los elementos, y les ha dado un car&aacute;cter no poco juerguista &ndash;la ciudad est&aacute; en fiestas, por razones diversas, durante buena parte del a&ntilde;o&ndash;, y abierto a todo cuanto les ven&iacute;a de fuera. En cierto sentido, La Coru&ntilde;a es un poco la ant&iacute;tesis de los t&oacute;picos que siempre nos han contado de Galicia, aunque tampoco es posible imaginar a esta ciudad acristalada en ning&uacute;n otro lugar. Las galer&iacute;as son una de las im&aacute;genes m&aacute;s caracter&iacute;sticas de La Coru&ntilde;a, y una de las que la explican mejor. Estas ventanas acristaladas comenzaron como simple protecci&oacute;n contra el clima en las fachadas posteriores de las casas que daban al mar. Aunque ahora son la sonrisa brillante de la ciudad, a&uacute;n se detectan peque&ntilde;as se&ntilde;ales de este car&aacute;cter secundario en alguna cisterna o alguna argolla en la que anta&ntilde;o se pod&iacute;a amarrar una embarcaci&oacute;n, antes de que la reurbanizaci&oacute;n de finales del siglo XIX llenara el muelle &ndash;creando una calle que los coru&ntilde;eses llamaban &ldquo;El relleno&rdquo;&ndash; y vaciara el centro para crear la plaza de Mar&iacute;a Pita &ndash;a la que tambi&eacute;n se bautiz&oacute; durante un tiempo con el descriptivo nombre de &ldquo;El derribo&rdquo;&ndash;. Estas transformaciones urban&iacute;sticas son propias de un lugar que ha tenido que renacer en varias ocasiones, y que por su posici&oacute;n en el mapa ha tenido una complicada historia b&eacute;lica.<img src="http://magarticles.magzter.com/articles/13475/261711/5a70b06fb1752/1517334558566.jpg"" owidth=723 oheight=583" style="height:484px; width:600px" />En la plaza de Mar&iacute;a Pita, el monumento dedicado a esta hero&iacute;na coru&ntilde;esa preside el espacio lanza en mano. Partisana avant la lettre, Pita resisti&oacute; el asedio de la escuadra inglesa comandada por el corsario Francis Drake en 1589 y mat&oacute; a un alf&eacute;rez ingl&eacute;s, supuestamente al grito de &ldquo;&iexcl;quien tenga honra que me siga!&rdquo;. Una resistencia liderada por mujeres que consigui&oacute; girar el rumbo del asedio, y que ser&iacute;a solo un episodio m&aacute;s en la complicada vida de esta mujer, llena de pleitos, viudeces y avatares varios. Al lado del monumento a Pita, y compitiendo con ella en grandeza, est&aacute; el palacio municipal, un enorme ayuntamiento que es tal cual una se imagina siempre los ayuntamientos de las novelas decimon&oacute;nicas, con una majestuosa escalinata &ndash;en realidad, de mediados del siglo XX&ndash; y salones llenos de curios&iacute;simas historias. Es posible conseguir que el fantasma de Picadillo (nombre real: Manuel Mar&iacute;a Puga y Parga), orondo alcalde de la ciudad en dos ocasiones y, sobre todo, gastr&oacute;nomo simpatiqu&iacute;simo y muy querido por los coru&ntilde;eses, que public&oacute; varios libros, nos gu&iacute;e en la visita. Esta, como las que lleva a cabo una &ldquo;reencarnaci&oacute;n&rdquo; de Mar&iacute;a Pita por el casco antiguo de la ciudad, las propone Turismo de La Coru&ntilde;a y son gratuitas, pero deben reservarse con mucha antelaci&oacute;n porque son muy populares. A solo diez minutos del ayuntamiento, mucho m&aacute;s &iacute;ntimo, est&aacute; el rom&aacute;ntico y recoleto jard&iacute;n de San Carlos, un antiguo baluarte defensivo. En &eacute;l se encuentra la tumba del general John Moore, quien muri&oacute; en las guerras napole&oacute;nicas durante la evacuaci&oacute;n de las tropas brit&aacute;nicas por el puerto &ndash;una haza&ntilde;a que se conoce como el Dunkerke del siglo XIX&ndash; y que es visitada, dicen, cada 16 de enero por una misteriosa dama espectral que habr&iacute;a sido en vida la amante de Moore.<img src="http://magarticles.magzter.com/articles/13475/261711/5a70b06fb1752/1517334558681.jpg"" owidth=518 oheight=361" style="height:348px; width:500px" />Pero tanta aparici&oacute;n fantasmal no parece haberles quitado el hambre a los coru&ntilde;eses, sino m&aacute;s bien todo lo contrario. Ingredientes no les faltan, puesto que la ciudad cuenta con varios mercados espectaculares. El Mercado de la Plaza de Lugo cuenta con nada menos que 95 puestos de pescado en su planta inferior. Pescado llegado mayoritariamente de la vecina lonja, en la que es posible presenciar la subasta diaria. &iexcl;Y qu&eacute; pescado! Los puestos cubiertos de hielo est&aacute;n llenos de centollos, pulpos, percebes y otras especies, movi&eacute;ndose y brillando mientras los examinan avezados compradores. En el Mercado de San Agust&iacute;n, de elegante arquitectura art dec&oacute;, el marisco se combina con las verduras y las carnes, y, una vez al a&ntilde;o, con los bocadillos gourmet en el Festival Boucatise, dedicado al imperio del pan. Porque el pan es religi&oacute;n en Galicia, y en el propio mercado es posible encontrarlo en sus m&uacute;ltiples confesiones. Nosotros nos quedamos con la empanada de zamburi&ntilde;as que venden junto a las escaleras de la entrada, pero reservamos un espacio para sentarnos a la mesa. Y es que a La Coru&ntilde;a hay que ir con hambre. Restaurantes con estrella, como el barroco &Aacute;rbore da Veira (Rua San Andr&eacute;s, 109) o el deslumbrante Alborada (paseo Mar&iacute;timo Alcalde Francisco V&aacute;zquez, 25) est&aacute;n a la cabeza de este esplendor gastron&oacute;mico que har&iacute;a que Picadillo se levantara de su tumba, pero tambi&eacute;n hay una oferta m&aacute;s informal &ndash;situada en los alrededores de la calle Rego de Agua&ndash; con nombres como Arallos (plaza de Mar&iacute;a Pita, 3), Bocanegra (Riego de Agua, 35) o Ecl&eacute;ctic (R&uacute;a Oliva, 3), que merece la pena descubrir.<img src="http://magarticles.magzter.com/articles/13475/261711/5a70b06fb1752/1517334596701.jpg"" owidth=402 oheight=547" style="height:600px; width:441px" />Y despu&eacute;s de una de estas comidas, el mejor modo de bajarlas y de alimentar, a su vez, el alma es contemplar La Coru&ntilde;a desde alguno de sus miradores. El m&aacute;s cl&aacute;sico es, desde luego, la Torre de H&eacute;rcules, el mejor conservado de la antig&uuml;edad &ndash;ya entonces solo lo superaba el de Alejandr&iacute;a&ndash; y que se alimentaba con aceite y le&ntilde;a para guiar a las embarcaciones que cruzaban las procelosas aguas de la entrada de la ciudad. La Torre de H&eacute;rcules, desde cuya cima se dec&iacute;a que se pod&iacute;a avistar Irlanda, fue reconstruida en tiempos de Carlos III en un proyecto arqueol&oacute;gico no ya mod&eacute;lico para la &eacute;poca, sino incluso para los est&aacute;ndares actuales. Sin embargo, pese a la belleza de la torre y al inter&eacute;s indudable de visitarla, la mejor vista sobre La Coru&ntilde;a es la que se obtiene desde el mirador del Monte de San Pedro. Esta vista fue precisamente lo que motiv&oacute; que aqu&iacute; se instalaran dos enormes ca&ntilde;ones Vickers que estaban listos para defender las aguas que separan a la ciudad del Ferrol. El monte de San Pedro, al que se puede acceder en coche o autob&uacute;s, pero que cuenta con un curioso ascensor que lleva hasta &eacute;l, es un poco el resumen de lo que es La Coru&ntilde;a entera. Encarada al mar, esta antigua defensa militar esconde en su subsuelo un pasado de guerras e invasiones, pero en una visita cualquiera poco recuerda a ello. La gente pasea a los perros por el laberinto vegetal que corona la cima. El viento sopla fuerte sobre el observatorio construido para resguardar a los visitantes en invierno, y el sol &ndash;invitado poco frecuente&ndash; brilla sobre la lengua de tierra de la ciudad. Una ciudad con est&oacute;mago y, sobre todo, coraz&oacute;n.<img src="http://magarticles.magzter.com/articles/13475/261711/5a70b06fb1752/1517334596882.jpg"" owidth=631 oheight=498" style="height:474px; width:600px" /><img src="http://magarticles.magzter.com/articles/13475/261711/5a70b06fb1752/1517334558697.jpg"" owidth=520 oheight=359" style="height:414px; width:600px" /><img src="http://magarticles.magzter.com/articles/13475/261711/5a70b06fb1752/1517334596905.jpg"" owidth=721 oheight=372" style="height:310px; width:600px" />

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{{magzter}} is the World's largest and fastest growing self-service, cross-platform digital newsstand with over 87 million users since its inception in 2011 and thousands of magazines and newspapers across 40+ categories and 60+ languages. Headquartered in New York, Magzter has its local presence in Amsterdam, London, Mexico City, Chennai, Mumbai, New Delhi, Bengaluru, Singapore, and will soon be expanding to other countries. Founded by global entrepreneurs, Girish Ramdas and Vijay Radhakrishnan in June 2011, Magzter enables magazine and newspaper publishers around the world to create and deliver digital editions of their titles to global consumers.