Achieving Symmetry
Rock and Ice|February 2017, #240

Advance Your Training By Doing Things The Same.

Neil Gresham
Achieving Symmetry

You’re already experienced in training through bouldering, campus boarding and hang boarding. What next, then, to raise your strength to the next level? Try symmetrical training.

The concept is to address weaknesses by training on a steep woody board or wall on holds arranged in a symmetrical pattern, working the same combinations of muscle groups on both sides of the body.

Symmetrical training has two main subsets: use of a system wall with problems made of one type of hold, such as all underclings; and use of a symmetrical wall (somewhat confusingly, this has the name as the overall training type, but means a particular setup on a wall), each side of which contains all of the same holds as the other, in reverse orientation. Both provide great options for home-training facilities.

Symmetrical training is geared largely toward those climbing in the mid V-grades and above; hence the suggested wall-angle range is 30 to 50 degrees. Those climbing in the lower grades are advised to stick with conventional bouldering until you feel you are no longer progressing.

1. System Wall

This story is from the February 2017, #240 edition of Rock and Ice.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the February 2017, #240 edition of Rock and Ice.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM ROCK AND ICEView All
Rock and Ice

Call of Duty

Vikki Weldon: Hard lines and the front line

time-read
4 mins  |
June/July 2020
Rock and Ice

THE BADGE

WE DEFINE OURSELVES AS CLIMBERS, BUT IS THAT GOOD ENOUGH?

time-read
6 mins  |
June/July 2020
Rock and Ice

THE ACHIEVER

MARICELA ROSALES HAD EVERYTHING AGAINST HER. SHE BECAME A CLIMBER ANYWAY.

time-read
10+ mins  |
June/July 2020
Rock and Ice

Chris Sharma

FIRST ASCENTIONIST, FORMER WORLD CHAMPION, OWNS GYMS IN SPAIN AND USA. INTERVIEWED IN QUARANTINE IN BARCELONA WITH HIS WIFE, 3-YEAR-OLD DAUGHTER AND 1-YEAR-OLD SON.

time-read
5 mins  |
June/July 2020
Rock and Ice

PROJECT WAIT

A LIFELONG CLIMBER CONSIDERS THROWING IN THE TOWEL

time-read
10 mins  |
June/July 2020
Rock and Ice

Older, Wiser, Stronger!

YES, THEY CAN GO TOGETHER. HOW TO TRAIN STRENGTH AS YOU COME ALONG DOWN THE ROAD.

time-read
7 mins  |
June/July 2020
Rock and Ice

CALCULATED RISK

HOW UNDERSTANDING DANGER COULD KEEP YOU OUT OF HARM’S WAY

time-read
5 mins  |
June/July 2020
Accessories To Climb
Rock and Ice

Accessories To Climb

Field tested

time-read
6 mins  |
February/March 2020
To The Grit
Rock and Ice

To The Grit

About 10 winters ago I touched down in Manchester in a hard, driving English rain. The city was hidden from view. I was groggy after a red-eye from Dallas, an over-brewed black tea barking on my dry tongue.

time-read
10+ mins  |
December/January 2020
The Wild Ones
Rock and Ice

The Wild Ones

North Conway is a typical New Hampshire town tucked among rolling hardwood hills and set at the foot of imposing granite slabs, but 30 years ago it was the stage on which a small band of climbers led the way in boldness and vision.

time-read
10+ mins  |
December/January 2020