<div style="page-break-before:always; page-break-after:always"><p id="1">The news that the great Ukrainian diner Veselka is back in business with a limited menu for takeout and delivery has not escaped the notice of the national pierogi cognoscenti. &ldquo;I live in Boulder, Colorado,&rdquo; writes @chrissy_aitch on Instagram. &ldquo;Am I located in the delivery zone?&rdquo; Local borscht mavens are pretty excited about it, too. And so is the Underground Gourmet, who over the years has developed a thing for a Veselka sandwich called the Baczynsky: ham plus salami and cheese on a roll. On paper, that combo does not sound like the last word on the subject of sandwiches. And it&rsquo;s doubtful that, unless ballot boxes were stuffed or judges bribed, the Baczynsky would ever win any awards. But we love it. The ingredients come from the Ukrainian butcher shop Baczynsky&rsquo;s (a.k.a. East Village Meat Market), for which the sandwich is named, and each one is grade-A and top-notch. The soft, Eastern European&ndash; style &ldquo;cooked&rdquo; salami is made from an old-world recipe of Julian Baczynsky&rsquo;s, the 97-year-old founder of said meat market. Ditto the smoky ham. The Polish Podlaski cheese adds a mildly tangy note, and Veselka&rsquo;s own giardiniera like pickled-vegetable relish lends a zingy poor-man&rsquo;s-muffuletta effect. Describing the bread is difficult only because, in our experience, it changes from order to order seemingly at the whim of the kitchen. One day it&rsquo;s a crusty Italian-style number, the next it&rsquo;s a pumpernickel baguette; recently it was slices from a regular pumpernickel loaf baked by the 104-year-old Upper East Side bakery Orwashers.</p><div style="page-break-before:always; page-break-after:always"><p id="2">No matter. The point is that the whole of a Baczynsky is greater than the sum of its parts, and that biting into this super sandwich is like biting into a bit of the history of the East Village and its PolishUkrainian food culture.</p><p id="3">This chapter of the history, for those who may not know it, began when Wolodymyr Darmochwal, an agronomist and Ukrainian immigrant, founded Veselka on the corner of Second Avenue and 9th Street as a candy shop&ndash; newsstand in 1954. The shop gradually expanded to become a luncheonette and all-around social center. Meanwhile, Julian Baczynsky, also from Ukraine, was smoking hams and hanging sausages on Avenue B. In 1970, he relocated to Second Avenue across the street from Veselka. It turned out to be a good move. By then, Darmochwal&rsquo;s son-in-law, Tom Birchard, was running Veselka. Although Birchard was from Pennsauken, New Jersey, not Kiev, and of English and Irish extraction, he had a passion for preserving traditional Eastern European foodways. When Birchard took ownership of Veselka and expanded the restaurant&rsquo;s menu, he began buying from Baczynsky&rsquo;s, forging a business relationship that lasts to this day. Now, Birchard&rsquo;s son and partner Jason, who manages the restaurant, carries on the neighborly tradition, and Baczynsky&rsquo;s butcher shop continues to supply Veselka with meat, including hot dogs, pork belly, ground pork (for stuffed cabbages and Ukrainian meatballs), and, during a typical pre-pandemic week, about 200 pounds of kielbasa. Veselka even totes its house-brined chickens across the street to be smoked at Baczynsky&rsquo;s.</p><div style="page-break-before:always; page-break-after:always"><p id="2">Of course, the coronavirus has hurt both businesses. Although Veselka has applied for a small-business PPP loan and Birchard and son are tapping into a rainy day fund they&rsquo;d planned on using to renovate the restaurant, Tom Birchard says the future of Veselka is uncertain. &ldquo;We don&rsquo;t know what the next opening stage is going to look like, but it&rsquo;s certainly not going to be like before.&rdquo; If and when restaurants are allowed to reopen at a percentage of their full- occupancy capacity, &ldquo;we could kind of limp along at 50 with takeout and delivery, but 25 percent would be tough &hellip; and then there&rsquo;s rent.&rdquo;</p><p id="3">Andrew Ilnicki, the butcher and general manager of Baczynsky&rsquo;s, is more optimistic about the butcher shop. &ldquo;People want meat; they are buying more steaks, ground beef, pork chops, and chicken,&rdquo; he says. &ldquo;Business overall is down, but it isn&rsquo;t getting worse, so I think after some time, it&rsquo;s going to pick up and we&rsquo;ll be all right.&rdquo;</p><p id="4">Whatever happens, both businesses are invested in each other&rsquo;s survival. It&rsquo;s the spirit of the Baczynsky sandwich at work. &ldquo;We wanted to do something that highlighted Baczynsky&rsquo;s meats; we wanted to try to support them,&rdquo; says Jason Birchard, recalling how the Baczynsky sandwich came to be several years ago. &ldquo;And it&rsquo;s the same thing today: We&rsquo;re two small neighborhood mom-and-pops helping each other out, just trying to make a living.&rdquo; </p>

THE UNDERGROUND GOURMET: Veselka's Baczynsky Returns

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