When We Go Out Again
Esquire Singapore|August 2020
When We Go Out Again
If this pandemic has taught us anything about restaurants, it’s the real reason we love them so much.
Jeff Gordinier
With the flick of a knife, I felt transported back to my childhood.

Melted butter, flecked with fresh herbs, poured out of a cut in a breaded chicken breast and formed an amber pool on my plate. I was in a new restaurant in New York City, Veronika, which occupies the second floor of a cool new photography museum, Fotografiska, but I had ordered a dish that I first encountered at some moment in the 1970s when my parents took me to a fancy restaurant that probably specialised in the same sort of European grandeur that Veronika aims to revive: chicken Kiev.


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August 2020