Two decades after a train trip through Cambodia, Michelle Jana Chan retraces her route
It felt like the dreamy old days, gripping a battered copy of Southeast Asia on a Shoestring as the train moved out of Phnom Penh. I passed five lovely, languorous hours in the open doorway at the end of the car, forearms in the sun, feet dangling above the tracks, studying the stubbly rice fields long past their green best, the slender sugar palms, the blue and pink lotuses blossoming out of the mud.
Although Cambodia’s Royal Railway reinstated this route only a few years ago, today there’s absolutely nothing modern about it. When the train arrived at the sleepy town of Doun Kaev, I alighted to buy sliced green mango and sticky rice packed in palm leaves; after the whistle had blown and the brakes were released, I pulled myself back onto the moving train. It traveled so slowly that we sometimes stopped and rolled backward for no apparent reason.
At my destination, the southern city of Kampot, I found myself standing in the hot sunshine, almost alone. There was a muddled sign listing station in scattershot fashion, a smiling young ticket seller at a cubbyhole of a window and a few travelers moseying around as if they had nowhere to go next. Tuk-tuk drivers asked if I needed a ride; when I declined, they pressed their palms together and bowed in the traditional Sampeah greeting.
This story is from the August - September 2019 edition of Condé Nast Traveller India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the August - September 2019 edition of Condé Nast Traveller India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
TOP RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023
The ranking of India's 50 most exciting restaurants was revealed at a glittering ceremony at the Taj Lands End, Mumbai. Returning after a three-year hiatus, the event was a true celebration of the industry and the brightest stars of the fraternity showed up to support and cheer each other on!
ON THE GO
Our pick of the most stylish finds and travel related news
TANGIER RISING
THE CREATIVE VISIONARIES OF MOROCCO'S OFT-ROMANTICISED PORT CITY ARE TELLING A NEW STORY.
BRUSHES WITH NATURE
On the snowy Japanese island of Hokkaido, a rich seam of creativity and craftsmanship is deeply rooted in the physical world-and in a sacred Ainu tradition that has survived here for centuries
KOLKATA: A WINDOW TO THE FUTURE
In a city filled with colonial nostalgia, a a new restoration story and fresh approaches are changing the narrative, one building at a time.
VICTORIA BECKHAM
From Paris to Portofino via Los Angeles, the fashion designer shares the places and personal stories that have inspired her first fragrance collection
SHOPPING IN SEOUL
South Korea's capital may have grown into a pop-culture powerhouse, but its artisans are keeping ancient craft traditions alive.
POSTCARD FROM COLOGNE
Rimowa's Emelie De Vitis on her favourite places for espressos, botanical cocktails, relaxed dinners, art, architecture, and history in the German city that she and the cult luggage brand call home
DEEP DIVE DUBAI
Residents know there's more to this diverse emirate than meets the eye. The ones who shaped it share their favourite spots.
Winter Wanderlust
Embrace the best of the season with these standout winter experiences.