L'OFFICIEL Malaysia|June/July 2020
It was the making of a cinematic catwalk masterpiece that provided the storyline for the Gucci show. “I have always considered the fashion show as a magic event bursting with enchantment,” creative director Alessandro Michele mused. The sanctity of creation and what lies behind the curtains of the runway ritual became the premise for its set design. Upon an environmentally friendly voice message invite via WhatsApp, guests arrived at the Gucci Hub in Milan to be greeted with a backstage scenario of models in robes being prepped for hair and makeup. As the show opened, the sheer pink curtains shrouding a rotating circular space were dramatically dropped to unveil another behind-the-scenes set-up. The models were now being dressed in the season’s new looks before forming a mannequin-style presentation lining the edge within the glass enclosure. As they paraded out for the finale, the creative team took over their spots as Michele shone the spotlight on his band of “skilful hands” to whom he showered lavish acclaim in the show notes.
Taking up its usual spot at the mesmerising Fontaine du Trocadéro grounds right across the Eiffel Tower, it was a relatively scaled-down affair for Saint Laurent’s F/W ’20 show. Elegance with a sexy, voyeuristic edge made the cut this season as creative director Anthony Vaccarello juxtaposed house classics with latex to provoke a chic born from imperfection. “I wanted to find the balance between control and abandonment, the tension between discipline and pleasure that defines the modernity of Saint Laurent,” he said. Bureau Betak, an ISO-certified sustainable event management firm, used a route that minimised waste and maximised drama to frame the runway experience. As each model trooped down a darkened catwalk located within a mirror-clad cavernous cube, a circle of light illuminated her from a series of moving spotlights, casting long shadows on the curved backdrop. This set design paved the way for the models to appear in the light before disappearing into the dark, making for a delicious game of playful peek-a-boo for the audience.
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