RANDOM IDENTITIES
by Stefano Pilati
A creative directorship at a heritage-steeped house used to be the holy grail of fashion, with young designers gunning for top positions at brands owned by conglomerates such as LVMH, Kering, and Richemont. Scoring one meant an instant stamp of approval from the establishment and provided a shortcut to stardom and huge paydays. Designers who made their name helming heritage houses include John Galliano and Alexander McQueen at Givenchy, Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, Christopher Bailey at Burberry and Tom Ford at Gucci.
In the past decade though, as fashion and media changed beyond recognition, cracks started showing in the system. Both Galliano and McQueen experienced falls as dramatic as their ascensions. Galliano’s successor at Dior, Raf Simons, burned out from the intensity and was later unceremoniously ousted from his next job at Calvin Klein. Alber Elbaz suffered the same fate at Lanvin, despite turning the fortunes of the French brand around. Ghesquière left Balenciaga embroiled in an ugly spat while the stint of his successor, Alexander Wang, was marked by lackluster showings and an abrupt exit.
Perhaps burned out by the increasingly sped-up and corporatized fashion world, a whole host of star designers have left high-profile positions in recent years and have so far opted out of rejoining the industry. The most notable absence of Phoebe Philo, who left Celine after transforming the once-forgotten brand into a moneymaker and critical darling for LVMH, had Philophiles clamoring for an eponymous label. But the famously reclusive designer has so far remained mum.
This story is from the February 2020 edition of Harper's BAZAAR Singapore.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the February 2020 edition of Harper's BAZAAR Singapore.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Lights, Camera, Passion
Korean actor and heartthrob Lee Min Ho talks about the difference between Hollywood and Korean productions, taking on as many roles as possible, and why he's saving the Northern Lights for later.
Follow The Sun
HELENA LEE savours an epicurean adventure in Portugal, come rain or shine.
Crafting The Future
Luxury brands are carving out pathways for the next generation of makers to keep artisanal traditions alive and thriving.
An Oasis For Healing
Creative consultant Tracy Phillips' home is a perfect representation of her dynamic and multifaceted personality.
FINE & DANDY
Move over, hype-beast. Designers and celebrities alike are embracing big dandy energy this season.
HOROSCOPE
Time for self-love and patience. Following the solar eclipse on the 8th, this will be a defining month for you. Look beyond the results of personality quizzes and get real about who you are.
THE HOUSE THAT FRED BUILT
FRED, the jewellery Maison that Fred Samuel created, pays tribute to his philosophy of life, light, and an unmistakable bold aesthetic in the art and pioneering craft of precious gems.
PHYSICAL 100
KENNETH GOH looks into the development, mastery and skill that go into Cartier's Trinity 100 collection as he savours the best of the best at the Maison's headquarters in Paris.
DREAM CATCHER
Encased in monogram and gleaming with pride and joy, the legendary LOUIS VUITTON trunk makes its way Down Under to crown the best in the world of tennis. KENNETH GOH reports from the Australian Open.
Colour Me Happy
Spark joy and confidence in your life with a little colour.