India’s palatial hotels routinely top rankings of the world’s ultimate addresses. Kendall Hill checks into four of the subcontinent’s most distinctive lodgings.
Amanbagh, Rajasthan
This modern Mughal palace in a fertile valley about two hours’ drive northeast of Jaipur redefines accepted notions of serenity. The elegant symmetry of architect Ed Tuttle’s design, wrought in marble, sandstone and dozens of domes and set in idyllic grounds shaded by eucalypts and palms, immediately casts a spell. Guests are welcomed with a sung prayer to Vishnu that echoes around Amanbagh’s stone reception hall like a mantra. Staff tie blessings to guests’ wrists and offer infusions of fennel, basil and ginger from the organic garden.
The 37 suites are capacious pavilions split between bathrooms – each with baths carved from single chunks of Udaipur green marble – and supremely comfortable sleeping quarters. The effect of so much stone – pink Rajasthani and Makrana marble (as seen in the Taj Mahal), Dholpur sandstone, and Udaipur green – is timeless and sublime.
There are no televisions but also no shortage of entertainment. Perhaps lamplit dinners on a courtyard above the pool or in a silk-curtained chattri canopy set with a maharajah’s banquet of tandoor-roasted chicken with rice and dhal makhani. Join yoga classes, camel polo or evening aarti rituals; submit to spa sessions or arrange excursions to the abandoned city of Bhangarh, its sandstone temples and royal residences the inspiration for Tuttle’s design. And there’s wildlife spotting in Sariska Tiger Reserve, about 45 minutes’ drive away.
Amanbagh’s appeal lies in such “undiscovered experiences”, says general manager Karin van Zyl. “None of it is scripted for us. Every day is different because of what’s happening in the villages. We might have five Jeeps go out but all on different roads – to see weddings, funerals, the okra harvest, a baby goat being born.” Ajabgarh, Rajasthan, aman.com
This story is from the September 2019 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the September 2019 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Barossa Valley
We hit the road for a weekend escape, exploring the best regional Australia has to offer. This month we head to the Barossa Valley in South Australia.
Legends of reinvention
As ultra-luxe hotel group Rosewood takes on three benchmark New Zealand lodges, MICHAEL HARDEN gets the read on this next chapter.
EVERYDAY
Easy entertaining, weeknight dinners and suppers to share, all made with speed, without sacrificing flavour.
Australia's most wanted
For love or money, building a wine collection pays dividends. NED GOODWIN reveals the Australian fine wines to put away.
MEET THE MAKER GREG LAMBRECHT
When US-based engineer Greg Lambrecht invented wine preservation system Coravin a decade ago, he changed the way we drink premium wine.
SANDALFORD
Following its recent reboot, this historic WA winery restaurant is ready to wine and dine a new generation of guests, writes MAX VEENHUYZEN.
PITZI
The team behind Fico trot out a chic new pasta bar which makes simplicity something special, writes ALIX DAVIS.
BATHERS' PAVILION RESTAURANT
A new era is dawning at a lower north shore landmark, writes MATTY HIRSCH, with an astute new recruit leading the way
VUE DE MONDE
A Melbourne icon emerges from a makeover refreshed and energised, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.
STEPHANIE ALEXANDER
Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we meet chef, author and original cook's companion, Stephanie Alexander AO.