ALT PASTA BAR

Left-of-centre pasta plays lead alongside excellent snacks at this new-wave Italian-ish spot, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

- MICHAEL HARDEN

The word fusion, as applied to food, has lost the judgemental sting it had in the past. Discussions around cuisine “authenticity” and cultural appropriation continue to be had, but there are enough instances of talented chefs producing considered, informed and – best of all – delicious incarnations of fusion food that people no longer automatically wince when they hear the term. One of the latest exponents of wince-free fusion is chef Mino Han at his excellent laneway diner Alt Pasta Bar.

Alt has taken over the space once occupied by the sadly deceased Korean restaurant Shik and has kept the best parts of that exposed brick, glamorously shadowy room while expanding the central bar into an open kitchen and losing the hip-hop soundtrack. It’s cosier and less raucous than its predecessor, which suits the pasta bar intentions.