More change and surprises in top Tunisia

After the African country came first for value in a recent poll, OLIVIA SHEED takes a new flight to discover the delights of Hammamet, with its added souks appeal

- OLIVIA SHEED

Tunisia is a place used to change. Recent history left scars across the landscape, but also helped it to heal into an entirely unique nation. And one I’ve long wanted to visit.

A French colony, then a dictatorship, and now a democracy following one of the most successful revolutions across the Arab Spring, this modern history I knew. I had to see the real Tunisia for myself.

It’s surprisingly reachable, with easyJet’s new flight from Newcastle to Enfidha helping you swap drizzle for sizzle in just over three hours. And then 45 minutes from the airport is one of the most authentic and affordable resort towns I’ve ever visited.

Hammamet is far from manicured beaches, tourist traps and pubs, something I tend to steer clear of. The north-east Tunisian coastline is altogether more interesting.

Hammamet is a five-star place with a three-star price. Staying at Les Orangers Garden Villas and Bungalows was such an eye-opener for me. It had everything you'd want from a quiet beach resort and more, but for less than you'd pay in many popular destinations. Your money buys a lot more in Tunisia, and that’s without even visiting a souk.

Speaking of old-fashioned shopping, Hammamet is home to an Old Medina, which is arguably the gem of the region. This beautiful walled section of the city took my breath away.

Dating back centuries, the walls climb up around you, but never feel claustrophobic. White walls, often accented with blue, run around a simplistic but beautiful mosque. Flowers and cacti dot the brickwork, interspersed with traditional doors.