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THE NEW TASTE OF INDIA

December 29, 2024

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THE WEEK India

Innovative entrepreneurs are redrawing the restaurant scene. In the offing is a fundamental change in the way Indians eat, drink and make merry

- K. SUNIL THOMAS

THE NEW TASTE OF INDIA

It was tough being a student with dyslexia and no interest in studies in the India of the 1980s and 90s, particularly if you fancied making your mark through entrepreneurship. Delhi boy Priyank Sukhija did it the old-fashioned way, taking money from his parents and tinkering with various businesses as a teenager. He almost opened a bowling alley (local authorities did not allow it) before following his heart and tongue, hitting the bullseye with the restaurant Lazeez Afffaire when he was just 19.

They do not call Sukhija, now 44, the 'Restaurant King' or the 'Nightlife King of Delhi' for nothing. He runs over 30 food & beverage (F&B) outlets, ranging from fine dining restaurants to night clubs, that are doing brisk business, including popular brands like Lord of the Drinks and Diablo, and a turnover hitting ₹300 crore. He could well be the richest restaurateur in the country. Not bad for someone with no chef background and who once found it hard to clear term papers.

Sukhija, however, feels he has just started. "We are at the tip of the iceberg, with people just about starting to eat out more," he said. "Even if, say, 1 per cent of Delhi dines out more often, we will not have enough restaurants!"

BREAD & BUTTER

Man does not live by bread alone; a crostini or a bruschetta once in a while sure is nice. As the whole concept of restaurant outings as a special occasion makes way to eating out (or ordering in) as a matter of habit, restaurateurs are enticing customers with innovative cuisines and immersive experiences.

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