Chef's Brigade

With a couple of skilled apprentices ready to take on the kitchen, Darren Chin proves that too many cooks can expand an empire

- Aaron Pereira

Succession planning can be tricky business. But Darren Chin has taken a leaf out of Sir Richard Branson's book-to train people well enough so they can leave, but treat them well enough so they don't want to. Obviously, business owners wouldn't want for their best employees to leave, especially after all the time and energy spent developing them; so instead, Chin launched new outposts to expand his business and give his talented chefs their own platform to shine.

In the fourth quarter of last year, Chin opened new outlets at M Resort & Hotel in Bukit Kiara, Kuala Lumpur. Here, the chef-owner of Michelin-starred DC Restaurant branched out his three brands: Bref, specialising in French cooking techniques; Gai, focusing on Thai cuisine; and Monsieur Darren (MD), a pastry house.

"One of the main reasons why I did this was to empower a loyal and capable chef who has been with me for a long time. Chef Lim Wei Han has worked with me for close to a decade, and I wanted to build a better space for him. He has journeyed with me, and this was a great avenue for him to spread out his wings, rather than leave us. Instead of rewarding him materialistically, I think this is something he enjoys and would appreciate more.

TASTE TEST

Highlights from Darren Chin's establishments: Gai, Bref and Monsieur Darren

GAI'S SIGNATURE CRAB OMELETTE

Using quality onzen ivory eggs and fresh jumbo lump crab meat, this dish is crispy on the outside yet tender within. Giving a truly savoury and satisfying kick, it can be enjoyed simply on its own. However, dipping it into the accompanying nam jim (a Thai fish-based sauce) adds a whole new level of flavour to each bite.

CONCHIGLIE CON GAMBERI