Getting to Lamu, off the coast of Kenya, is a mission. But as Nick Dall and his brother found out, tearing yourself away from this rhapsodical island of donkeys and dhows is even harder.
The bus ticket inspires confidence: “Pwani Tawakal Mini Coach – We run, others fly”. We pass through impressive pineapple fields before getting to Kilifi, a magnificent steep-sided lagoon, and, a couple of hours later, Malindi, a picturesque beach resort that is, for some reason, extremely popular among Italians. In the immediate vicinity of the bus station alone, there are several pizzerias and a gelateria.
Our bus bumbles along the sandy road that dissects a lawless region notorious for attacks by Al-Shabaab bandits. Thankfully our only assailants are mozzies and boredom and we eventually reach Mokowe to board the ferry that will take us to Lamu itself. In a ramshackle, overloaded vessel, we cross the 400 m channel that separates Lamu from mainland Kenya.
Being the only mzungus on the ferry, we are given a heroes’ welcome when we arrive. Lamu has been a trading port for nearly 700 years and it still has a mercantile bustle despite being all but wiped off the map of global commerce. As soon as we set foot on land, 10 guys who all seem to be called Mohammed try to sell us everything from fresh crabs to dhow trips, bulging tamarind pods and cheap nylon mosquito nets.
Lamu is similar to Zanzibar. Both islands share histories of spices, slavery and shipping – and both are predominantly Muslim.
But Lamu is also very different to Zanzibar. For starters, there are only two cars on the island: the high commissioner’s Land Rover and an ambulance. Instead of vehicle traffic, there are thousands of donkeys. Lamu’s inaccessibility, coupled with the real but fading threat of terrorism, means that apart from intrepid backpackers and the megawealthy, the island has largely been untouched by commercial tourism.
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة January 2018 من go! - South Africa.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 8500 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك ? تسجيل الدخول
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة January 2018 من go! - South Africa.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 8500 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك? تسجيل الدخول
The wilder shore
The final leg of a 30-day trek across East Africa sees lan Tyrer and the Africa - Wild & Untamed crew explore both shores of Lake Malawi. Get ready for an overloaded ferry, a croc attack and being surrounded by elephants...
A river runs through it
Sabie is onthe Drakensberg escaromentialongMpumalanga’s famous Panorama Route. Want a weekend away surrounded by forests and waterfalls? Here's wnat you need to know.
TAKE A HIKE
Harkerville's mini Otter
Sweet & juicy!
This issue's recipes all include lush seasonal fruit like nectarines, plums and apricots. Enjoy!
Big mountain magic
On a clear day, as you approach the Cathedral Peak Hotel, it happens involuntarily: You start to grin. You'll be standing up there soon, gazing over this valley, and the scuttling of ground-level life will seem irrelevant. Join us on a five-day adventure into the heart of the high Drakensberg
Your next weekend away
A self-catering house in the Tankwa, a campsite next to the Orange River, a guest farm near the Drakensberg... Toast Coetzer travelled a lot last year: Here are six of his favourite places to stay if you're planning a road trip or weekend escape.
A life through binoculars
If the name Hugh Chittenden sounds familiar, it's probably because you see it every time you use your Roberts Bird Guide he's one of the co-authors. He lives in Mtunzini on the KZN coast and birding is as much part of his day as a cup of coffee.
Wanderlust in the park
All great cities have great parks, writes Dara Kell: spaces where you can exhale and slough off the stress and grime of urban life.
The Kalahari remembers
The Kalahari is a place of magic and heartache, where drought is an ever-present threat. Drive a loop from Upington to the Kuruman River and discover soulful landscapes, brilliant skies and resilient people who never give up.
Take a Hike
Hug a baobab in the Bushveld